See Vietnam in a new light - Stop 7 Ha Long Bay, Tam Coc, Trang An

20 October 2024 Ha Long Bay

For many travelers, Ha Long Bay best epitomizes Vietnam’s unique beauty. Wherever we are traveling around Vietnam, a pilgrimage to Ha Long Bay is too sacrilegious to miss. It is conveniently located only 170 km from Hanoi.

It was drizzling in the morning, the sky was grumpy but it gradually cleared up. Ha Long Bay can only be explored out at sea. The big tour boat carried just the two of us, me and another young American. We felt like royalty but we were not – the American was heavily indebted, eagerly awaiting Biden’s forgiveness of his student loan. For a price of 900K dong (approximately USD 36) we spent 6 hours cruising among the countless islets and were served lunch. Although I was treated like royalty, I felt cheap.

Covering thousands of square kilometers, Ha Long Bays’ core area has hundreds of islets, and appear as if they have been shattered from the mainland and scattered out to the sea around. These are monolithic limestone karst rocks of various shapes and sizes, looking freakish and ridiculous. Rising boldly from the water, they defy submersion, acting as breakwaters to keep the sea calm and emerald. This is Vietnam’s most picturesque.

I almost had the place all to myself, so I took my time to take the most captivating photos unhurried. On the way back to the mainland, the rain returned, and the karst landscape disappeared in the murkiness. Mother nature helped – I had a beautiful day.

21 October 2024 Tam Coc

Less than 4 hours away from Ha Long Bay is Tam Coc. It is also well known for its karst landforms.

Unlike the karst rock formations at Ha Long Bay, these karst rocks are on land but are soaked waist-deep in the lake, surrounded by mountains and vegetation.

I rented a motorbike, which is the most versatile way to go off the beaten track and to the less frequented corners of this area. I went everywhere I could, discovering undiscovered gems and spots less written about. Often, I was stopped in my tracks at dead ends, confronted by a cliff face rising before my nose, or a serene lake that did not welcome unannounced visitors. There was no one else around except the isolated houses tucked at the bottom of the karst rocks and the occasional motorbikes that whirred past. Sometimes, a canoe would pedal by, but it was mostly a secluded sanctuary.

I had this quiet place to myself. It is a loner’s paradise.

21 October 2024 Trang An

Approximately 10 km away from Tam Coc lies Trang An. Upon entering the main gate, many rowboats awaited. These boats, accommodating 3-4 people each, would take us around the reserve when it is filled. Arriving early in the morning when the crowd was still sparse. Soon, I joined a couple of young Spanish travelers in a boat pedaled by an old man. It is appropriate, as this is a place that must be explored leisurely. An energetic young man puffing away at full speed, or an engine humming loudly will not be the appropriate mood music.

Trang An’s boat ride winds through thousands of hectares of pristine nature reserve, dominated by stunning karst landforms. Everything here works together to keep this place pristine and quiet. Water is everywhere. Only row boats can traverse this area, just like it was before the engine was invented. Surrounded by mountains and karst rocks, the winds were kept at bay. Sometimes we were told to duck as the boat went through a low cave where the roof was only a meter above the water. After exiting the caves, we would emerge in an open area surrounded by green mountains and karst rocks. The water was so mirror-smooth it let the mountains around take a good look at themselves. It was like a secret place only known to a few of us.

At Ha Long Bay, I saw the spectacular karst rocks in a large tour boat from afar. In Trang An, I sat in a sampan to go close up. I could touch the rugged limestone rocks and dip my fingers into the water. I did not just see a beautiful magical place; I was in it.

As the day progressed, more boats appeared, breaking the initial serenity. But it’s ok – I am returning soon to Hanoi where I would be welcomed by the hustle and buzzle of the city.