15-16 October 2024 My next destination from Hoi An is Hue, still in Central Vietnam. The rain followed me from Hoi An, and it was damp and dark when I arrived in Hue in the late afternoon.
The following day, I rented a motorbike to cover the distance to see these historical sites across the city, allowing me more time to delve into each one.
Hue, an old capital and old royal city of Vietnam, served as the national capital from 1802 to 1945. I first visited Mang Minh Tomb, Khai Dinh Tomb, and Vong Canh Hill. The Vietnamese architectural styles surprised me with their resemblance to Chinese design. At the Khai Dinh mausoleum, I was stunned to see stone statues of Chinese soldiers in the front courtyard. I mused, were these Chinese mercenaries back then? They are often built with huge courtyards, often surrounded by lush green trees and colorful flowers. Whichever way I looked at them – from the front, from the back, from high up, and from the sides, I saw different perspectives of their charm. While the original colors of these structures have suffered much from the rain and sun, they still reveal the grandeur and resplendence of an imperial city.
The citadel was impressive, complete with moat, walls, gates, and all. At this time, the moat was full and the sky ominous, as though it was facing an impending siege. The gates were authoritative and magnificent, like the ones seen in Beijing. Seeing such architectural influence in Southeast Asia was a delightful surprise – a testament to the historical connection between neighboring cultures.
As soon as I finished one, I was excited to see the next one. Hue promised much and delivered more.
This region around the middle of Vietnam received tons of rain this time of the year. Some streets in town were flooded, and visiting Tu Hieu Pagoda and other sites became nearly impossible. The rivers were filled to the brim and overflowing. The water came marauding into the town center brazenly, the streets became rivers. The water eventually receded, leaving rubbish strewn all over town, for the people to pick up the pieces. They have to weather it all, including their stormy past. They are gritty, they will survive, very well.
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