13-14 October 2022 My next stop from Da Nang was Hoi An, only 20 km away. Of all the destinations in Vietnam, this one sounds particularly Chinese, it is ( in Chinese 会安）. It was a name given by both Chinese settlers in the 4th century, translated as “peaceful meeting place”.
I took my sweet time to arrive in Hoi An in the afternoon. The river was almost full to the brim. A row of trishaws at the riverfront awaited enthusiastic visitors to take them around this old town. The sky was overcast and foreboding. It looked like it was quite ready to douse any enthusiasm.
Hoi An is an ancient town. It has not kept up with “progress ” elsewhere in the country, fortunately for those looking for nostalgia. The shophouses, temples, and colonial buildings look as they were when built, stuck in time when it began as a port city, but now bearing the love marks of decades of rain and shine.
Walking the streets, I wondered, how Chinese it feels and looks. Chinese characters adorn some temples and some historical buildings. They have been neighbors after all.
Such a wet place at this time. Water came down from above, water seeped inland under our feet, and water in the river flowed around us. The tourists continued to come, despite the rain. They came well-dressed, with slippers, shoes, and boots. The rain came unabated, but the tourists came with umbrellas and raincoats, led by their indomitable tour guides. On the second day, the rain eventually stopped, but the river burst the Bank, inundating some riverside streets.
As night fell, bunches of lanterns hanging on the streets and houses that had looked bored came to light. In the old town center, vibrantly lit lanterns adorned row boats on the river. These lanterns transformed this old town into a nightly traditional festive celebration.
Morning arrived, and it was time to leave. But before I was ready, the guesthouse host hurried me to leave, as the flood water was encroaching. I stepped on a chair over a water-filled street to climb into the taxi. It essentially waded through the water to drive me out of town. When I arrived at the train station to try to go to Hue, the trains had been canceled because the tracks had been submerged.
I picked the best time to visit Hoi An. Truly a beguiling riverside coastal ancient town.
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