How to experience the unique cultures of Xinjiang, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan in 70 days (Stop 20 Dunhuang)

Dunhuang, Gansu, China. Visited 8 August 2024

I started this journey by flying from Kuala Lumpur to Urumqi on 12 June 2024. I toured South and then North Xinjiang in 25 days. I then explored Kyrgyzstan, followed by Tajikistan. From Dushanbe in Tajikistan, I flew back to Urumqi in Xinjiang, China on the 7 August, then proceeded to Hami. After spending a night there, I continued to Dunhuang (敦煌). The plan is to go eastward toward Xian (see route map below).

I arrived late in the afternoon. Soon the sun set, and I had not secured a place to stay for the night. The city was filled to the hilt with tourists from all over China. I wandered down some dark alleys and found one cheap place; the shower head barely dripped, and the toilet was a hole in the ground.

Buzzling open-air night food court in Dunhuang City center
Buzzling open-air night food court in Dunhuang City center

Dunhuang is an oasis and a historical city on the ancient Silk Route, well-known for the Mogao Grottoes. There are 492 preserved caves carved into the cliff, housing the paintings and statues of Buddhist art that span 1000 years. I paid about USD 33 to be guided into 8 of the grottoes. Their colors are still mostly vivid. Some of these paintings were restored by various dynasties such as the Qing and Tang Dynasty. Taking photos was not allowed inside the caves.

The crowd was large. There were a lot of bodies trying to squeeze into those little pigeonholes. There were long queues, but they moved quickly. There was a lot of noise, but everyone behaved. Afterward, we were rewarded with sore necks from having to constantly looking up the ceilings and walls to follow the shine of the tour guide’s touch light and narratives. Great to be connected to that part of history, whatever we each believe in now.

The Nine-Storey Pagoda of Mogao Grottoes
The Nine-Storey Pagoda of Mogao Grottoes
Mogao Grottoes cliff face
Mogao Grottoes cliff face
Caves of Mogao Grottoes carved into the cliff face
Caves of Mogao Grottoes carved into the cliff face
Mogao Grottoes
Mogao Grottoes

I then rode a taxi to Yueyaquan, meaning Crescent Lake (月牙泉), to see the desert dunes and a lake tucked at the bottom of the dunes. It was almost like a fun park in the desert – sand buggies roamed up and down the dunes, hikers climbed the molehills like ants, lazy bones rode on camels, girls transformed into princesses, dressed in opulent ancient Han costumes for a photoshoot, paramotors flew like annoying flies in the sky, and helicopters buzzed loudly overhead for those who flaunt their wealth. The only ones who did not have fun were the camels, being sat on the whole day, their backs caved in. The rain came, 3 times in the desert! That will break the camels’ backs, being so used to sitting on hot sand like a heated toilet seat in winter, and having cold water raining on their heads.

An enlightening and fun day!

Yue Ya Quan (Crescent Lake), from atop a sand dune
Yue Ya Quan (Crescent Lake), from atop a sand dune
Dressing up ancient for photoshoot
Dressing up ancient for photoshoot
Camels observing traffic lights
Camels observing traffic lights
The crowd climbing the dunes at Yueyaquan
The crowd climbing the dunes at Yueyaquan
Camels waiting to be ridden at Yue Ya Quan
Camels waiting to be ridden at Yue Ya Quan

To go to the next Stop, click the link below:

How to experience the unique cultures of Xinjiang, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan in 70 days (Stop 21 Jiayuguan)

To start from Stop 1, click the link below:

How to experience the unique cultures of Xinjiang, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan in 70 days (Stop 1 Urumqi)

The Stops on this Trip:

China Urumqi > Turpan > Kuerle > Kuqa > Kashgar > Kuqa > Nalati (via Duku Scenic Drive) > Kuerdening > Yining > Sailimu Lake > Yining > Urumqi > Buerjin > Kanas Lake > Hemu > China Urumqi > Kyrgyzstan Bishkek > Bokonbayevo (Issyk kul Lake) > Karakol > Kyrgyzstan Bishkek > Uzbekistan Tashkent > Tajikistan > Khujand > Panjakent (and Haft Kul/The Seven Lakes) > Iskanderkul > Dushanbe > China Urumqi > Hami > Dunhuang > Jiayuguan > Zhangye > Lanzhou > Xian   

The route map

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