23-26 February 2024 After Bocas del Toro, I set my sights on Costa Rica. I boarded a boat to Almirante on the mainland, then proceeded to the border crossing at Guabito-Sixaoli. At the Costa Rica border control, I was asked for proof of onward travel after visiting Costa Rica. I was unable to prove it, because I wanted to be a free spirit. After more than an hour, they relented. They welcomed me, but they didn’t want me to overstay my welcome. I then hopped on a local bus to Puerto Viejo.
I arrived in a town by the sea, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. A lively mix of restaurants, cafes, guesthouses, and shops, all cater to the whims of visitors. Foreign tourists abound, hailing from various Latin American countries, as well as North America and Europe. The roar of the waves, the untouched jungle, and the hippie reggae beckoned.
The following day, I rode a bicycle from Puerto Viejo Beach in the town center, pedaling along the coast. I have to warn you that the bicycles in Panama have no brakes – this holds true for most bicycles in Central American countries. So how do you stop these bikes? They expect you to back-pedal. Yes, they are effectively circus bicycles. I stumbled twice, feeling like a clown, as I struggled to halt the wheels when slightly off-balance. Along the way, I made stops at Cockles, Chiquita, Uva, and finally reached Manzanillo Beach, about 12 km away. On the roads, carefree visitors pedaled their bikes, beach-hopping while dressed as lightly as possible, enjoying the sun while the sea roared on one side, and the jungle. Occasionally, a narrow jungle belt obscured the view of the sea, but its roar was still loud and clear.
On the second day, I repeated the same route, riding for another 12 kilometers to the Jairo Mora Sandoval Gandoca-Manzanillo Mixed Wildlife Refuge. The hike took about two hours through the jungle, made slippery and muddy by rain. Some girls even hiked in their bikinis – in the middle of the jungle, the rare sights startled me. At the end of each diversion point, an unfrequented and hidden beach awaited.
In town, it feels Caribbean. Men with braided hair sunburned to golden and impossible to untangle; the happy music of Caribbeans resonated on the streets, and the free-flowing alcohol, all promised a jolly good time.
They want you to hippie go lucky. So, come!
Click here to go to the next Stop 5 – San Jose, Costa Rica
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