How to experience the best of Central America in 50 days solo and overland Stop 3 Bocas del Toro

20-22 February 2024 From Boquete, I now made my way further north to the island of Bocas del Toro. The shuttle bus carried the bus load of us, Western tourists, plus one Asian, along the mostly single-lane mountain road. Light drizzles and fogs descended as we navigated potholes filled with water. After the bus and a speedboat ride, we arrived at Bocas del Toro.

The sky was filled with sulky grey clouds, ominously unwelcoming. The town was undergoing major reconstruction. With light rainfall, these streets were muddy and riddled with potholes. It was a mess.

Streets under reconstruction, potholes filled with pus

It was raining cats and dogs — Streets under reconstruction, potholes filled with pus

The second day was worst. The sky remained moody, occasionally beaming a smile of sunshine. Undaunted, I armed myself with an umbrella, a windbreaker, and a poncho, rented a bicycle and cycled for 10 km along the coast. The road hugged the sea, almost at sea level. Overcast skies and boisterous waves didn’t deter the surfers—they launched fearlessly. The higher the waves, the more they reveled in it. I cycled past several beaches, eventually reaching Bluff Beach. An enjoyable ride, the weather notwithstanding.

Caption: Cycling to Bluff Beach, Bocas del Toro, on a road under reconstruction

A boisterous sea under an overcast sky, Paunch Beach

The next morning, I woke up early to prepare for my departure to Costa Rica. To my delight, the sky opened up gloriously, revealing Bosca del Toro in its true light. I changed my plans and decided to go island hopping instead. First, I took a water taxi to Carenero Island – a short ride from Bocas del Toro. Trampled paths led through villages and jungle, with the sea churning white foam waves. Surfers floated out, chasing elusive high waves. Next, I hopped on another water taxi to Bastimentos Island, where I hiked through the bush to reach Wizard Beach. A day of hiking by to the sea, a good way to savor Panama, naturally.

Village houses by the sea, Carenero Island

Beautiful Bay, near Surfers' Beach, Carenero Island — Beautiful Bay, near Surfers’ Beach, Carenero Island

Surfers out in the sea trying to catch the elusive waves

Back on the main island of Bocas del Toro, another helping of their signature dish: lentil soup, bean rice, meat and salad. I was so full of beans that I could keep going, like forever.