See the free states of the Baltics in 3 weeks – Warsaw, Poland 5/2018 (3)

22-23/5/2018. From Ukraine, I actually wanted to next go to Belarus, but I read online that the Belarusian border control insists I come in through the airport. That cramps my style. So I headed next to Warsaw instead. There was an easier way to get to Warsaw from Lviv. But I am not one to take the easy way out.

The bus would take 10 hours, through cumbersome custom control, but I like the hard grind. It was to depart at 2 p.m., but it was canceled, so I had to depart a few hours later. By the time I arrived in Warsaw, it was already past 4 a.m.; it was a long day. All was forgotten and forgiven when I saw the sun rises and shine, already beaming its glorious smile. I could already smell the air of freedom and prosperity in my first breath. Remarkable, considering it was part of the ex-Soviet states not too long ago.

22-23/5/2018 从乌克兰本打算到白俄罗斯，但那边规定需由机场入境，那影响我作风，于是下一站转往波兰华沙去。其实有捷径， 但我闯荡江湖，该走自己的老路，结果选坐大巴。

原本十小时路程，又因原班取消又延迟几小时出发，到华沙凌晨四点钟。一张眼明亮晨光，漫长一天和煎熬抛在脑后。第一口已呼吸到这里的自由和希望；不久前这里还是苏共体一成员。

Rising above the city center is this distinguished building, the tallest in Poland, a present from the Russians—I heard not all the Poles appreciate it. Understandable, considering Poland is looking more and more European. It is, nevertheless, impressive, like a behemoth, with no competing buildings nearby. It is a present, notwithstanding the past.

这是波兰华沙市中心的地标，前苏联送给波兰的大礼， 可是听说不少波兰人现在不领情。也难怪，波兰现在亲欧不亲俄。的确是周围最抢眼的建筑，很壮观；是波兰的美，也是波兰得痛。俄罗斯聪明，这东西落地生根，拔也拔不掉。希望有朝一日，不计前嫌，和好如初。

Like me, Warsaw has come a long way. The old architecture testifies to its long road here. The aura of the past lingers. But modern buildings are making their grand appearances. I could see many good things coming.

华沙，波兰，已不同往日。崭新建筑吹响前进步伐；不少老建筑依旧，古风旺盛，有些被翻新以挽回可能永远痛失的；但没弃旧恋新，他们一起述说华沙，波兰的身世。

When I go to a country, I want to see what the country is about. Seeing the present is not good enough; I want to see its life story. Warsaw’s old town was still very much the town of old, though some of it was reconstructed to salvage what would have been lost for good. I loved strolling among these old relics, the past so vivid before me like they have been resurrected before my eyes.

每到一个国家一个城市，我都好奇这地方的来龙去脉，只纵观目前是不够的。华沙老城区代表这里的历史，提醒人们这里曾经的风云。这些欧洲人有智慧新城区在另一地方另起炉灶，把老城区保留，顽强显示依旧的风采。世事多少变迁，都无法磨灭历史。

In many cities, there is almost always a river nearby. That’s why they always call it mother river in Chinese. Some choose to leave it as pristine as possible, others try to elevate it. The Vistula Boulevard along the Vistula River in Warsaw is an impressive makeover that makes the riverside so friendly, fun, and chic. I could stroll here like an old man breathing the easy air, or play here like a child on its artistic playgrounds, or cycle here, watching the clouds on the river, or having a pint in one hand with the other holding hers, admiring the sunset.

许多城市都依山傍水，有母亲河相伴；华沙的维斯瓦河在黄昏这么祥和，静如湖水，云朵倒影清晰可见；家庭携小孩在玩乐；步行，跑步，滑轮和骑自行车在这里充氧；情侣手拉手，默默不语，心心相通，情深对视；这河岸精心打造，精准了解人们心理所要。母亲的无微不至，母亲的不舍不弃，顺理成章都叫母亲河。

I should have, but I did not go to Krakow. I later discovered this was a place of historical significance. It would have been enriching for me to visit a concentration camp. To make up for it in some way, I managed to visit Warsaw’s Museum of the History of Polish Jews. What if I had been born a Jew back then? I shuddered. An epic tragedy that should not be forgotten; worse, denied. That much we owe each other.

离克拉科夫城市不远有个二战时的犹太难民营；遗憾没做好计划去参观和感受。为了给自己安慰，乘有轨电车到这市里的波兰犹太博物馆。犹太人在波兰历史悠久， 惨遭屠杀，我在想，我如出生犹太，当时会有何感受？这是举世悲剧，不该忘记，更不该否认，这是人之常情。

I sat down in a restaurant to enjoy a taste of Poland. I should not be surprised I was served a morsel of steak only a bit bigger than a sample for food tasting, served with four sticks of stunted asparagus and some miserly spuds, all for USD 40. This was European, not American, where food was to be savored, not to fill (my tongue in my cheek). There were only three ingredients: beef, asparagus, and potatoes. Minimalism at its best. It was fine dining, the snobs would say. No wonder I enjoyed it. I also enjoyed a dinner of Polish dumplings. I was curious because it looked Chinese, but it tasted richer and more cheesy. At least I now knew not all dumplings was Chinese.

一整天大饱眼福，晚上坐下来寻味，尝尝波兰的味道。今晚点了牛扒，摆在眼前就是一小块牛肉，塞牙缝都不够，四根原型的芦笋，和土豆。没洼地，没汪洋，就搁浅干枯地上；三个原材料，没张灯挂彩，没点缀；棵棵都精心， 粒粒皆辛苦；这就是极简奥妙， 极简到出神入化。我记得在美国点牛扒，除牛头以外，几乎整头牛端上来，且如不明点，还会血淋淋端上来；这就是大吃大喝，吃个痛快。但这里是欧洲，人家弄的是精品，你得精吃；要细嚼慢咽，狼吞虎咽是没品味；尝其艺术，品其精华；为了艺术，花了四十美金也值了。也好奇尝试波兰饺子；饺子是波兰特色，真的很像华人的饺子。我点的这款放了不少奶酪，吃多了会腻，一杯红酒搭配妙到好处。