See the free states of the Baltics in 3 weeks – Kyiv (Kiev) Ukraine 5/2018 (2)

20-21/5/2018. The plan was to continue north to see some of the Baltic and ex-Soviet states. I was curious to see the transformation of these former communistic realms. So, after Kyiv, I am taking the train eastward, toward Lviv, seven hours away and almost at the border with Poland.

I walked out of my Airbnb apartment and immediately into Rynok Square, the city’s ancient square. All at once, busy churches with ongoing proceedings greeted me. Of course, it was a Sunday morning, and this is a city left with many old cathedrals! Instead of being surrounded by noisy tourists, or people out at the pubs half drunk, it was sobering for once to be surrounded by activities of a spiritual kind, where everything around turned serious and solemn. Like much of Europe, Lviv’s history is steeped in religion, of various denominations, reflecting the changing of scenes throughout its history. I poked my nose into some churches out of curiosity.

20-21/5/2018 我的计划是继续往北周游前苏共体的波罗的国，看看他们脱苏后日子过得怎样。离开基辅后，乘火车东跑，到七小时外的利沃夫，差不多在与波兰接壤边境。

一早出门， 广场里不是喧闹的游客，而是教堂热闹的仪式。我潜入教堂内参观；香火鼎盛，仪式隆重， 信徒踊跃。这是星期日，大家静下心，寄托神灵祝福。日常的嚣张，今天多有收敛；在上天下，低头忏悔。少指责，多反省，正好时候。

Ballet is one of the most beautiful ways the human body can express itself. In Lviv, I seized the opportunity to attend a ballet performance at the National Ballet Theatre. In a world of agitation and aggression, I found solace and beauty. I was simply carried away.

人的气质，仪态，优雅，芭蕾舞淋淋尽致展示。我在利沃夫百忙中到这里国家剧院看了午场；一楼最前排才十多美元体验了美到窒息的一晚。在明争暗斗的世间，修心养性很需要。

This whole place was like a party day and night every day. It was always lively with people. Tour groups continued to swarm every corner; people had a jolly good time at the cafes and pubs that lined the streets. And, of course, the music that rock and reverberate, inciting everyone to throw caution to the wind and inhibition confined to the washroom.

There is freedom of belief, to choose. There is also freedom of expression. I saw street performers showing off at every corner of this city. They busked on the streets, we basked in their music. It was not just music; it was the spirit, the freedom. In Asia, we prefer it staged. We frown on flamboyant showmanship. We like to control; we think we will look more orderly. But there is so much more joy where music simply flows in the air. Music should be impromptu, joy spontaneous, best shared.

我就住这老区中心，天天早晚像开大派对。在卵石道上旅游队跟着导游大街小巷好奇张望，聆听讲解；街边酒流如河的酒吧和室外餐厅；几乎每个角落都有街头艺人在满腔激情的发挥 – 无论是雕虫小技还是绝活，即是展示也是分享。这不只是音乐技艺发挥， 更是自由的发泄；没有城管，不顾目光； 心中的音乐，心中的快乐，在自由气氛飘扬， 这是快乐的新天地。

Lviv is such a cozy city, a walkable city. There is ample space to wander around. There is no rush and no queue. Nobody is bothered by anyone else. I had this place all to myself, yet never felt forlorn. My eyes had been preoccupied with historical buildings, my ears perked by the music on the streets, and my palate tickled by the dishes brandished.

利沃夫是个舒适的小城。这里有足够的空间，没长队没拥挤，没人冷眼，没人歧视，我我行我素，悠闲自在。我眼看历史，见证现今，耳听美乐，舌尖大快朵颐。

I went to the Lviv Polish consulate to enquire about visa requirements. There was already a long queue stretching beyond the building. When someone heard I wanted to ask about a visa to Poland, consulate personnel invited me inside and immediately saw to my needs. This must be by far the best consulate in the world! I already fell in love with Poland, which I had never met, like falling in love with a girl just listening to her voice.

在利沃夫 (Lviv) 的波兰使馆咨询签证问题，到那里时使馆前已大排长龙。使馆外听说我要到波兰有问题， 一使馆人员把我请入使馆内，并交代人员处理。他们不是朝南坐的，没老爷作风，这是世界最棒的使馆；虽还没踏足波兰，我已完全爱上波兰。