19-21/1/2020. Penang is special. I had been there in my early teens. This recent visit was simultaneously nostalgic and refreshing. I fell in love with it, kind of head to toes. It did not charm me with its glamour, just its simple acoustics. It did not have castle-in-the-air skyscrapers, just down-to-earth terrace shophouses.
Penang is an island that’s blessed with beaches. I, too, am an island. I find peace and solitude here when I want to.
This is a place gluttons can feel no remorse for indulging. The street food is schemingly located in all corners of the city to test your resolve. Nothing is sinful if it tastes great.
The colonial buildings have been whitewashed to stand as radiant as ever. The Brits were here. They built some, we built some, but undeniably, they enrich us, as though they have never left.
Everywhere I looked, everything looked very Chinese. The Chinese have a long history here. The old terrace shophouses are still here. They were built during colonial times, many before the 1960s. Their style is vernacular to this region, the lower floor for business and the upper as residence, functional but aesthetic, uniform but richly nuanced. Many are now dusted and spruced, taking their rightful place alongside the newer ones, giving off its old charm, with ever more beauty. Some have been accentuated to bring out its inner beauty. This is not aging gracefully. This is beauty that stands the test of time. I am now staying in one of these old buildings on this trip. It took me back to the past but it has also moved with time.
I have been to many countries in the world and have seen many cities. This is a Chinese enclave in this part of the world, still telling the story of the migration of the Chinese to this region. I hope they have the good sense to preserve this heritage, in the face of a dwindling presence, even if some now view the influx as unwelcomed. It is special.
19-21/1/2020 槟城很特别。几十年前也到过,这次重游,耳目一新,非常喜欢。
槟城是个岛,四面环海,在繁华中拼命捞,也可抽遐瘫在海滩,享受阳光,享受悠闲;这里是吃货天堂,山珍海味,街边小吃,全是华人的胃口和口味吃出来的;英国人曾在这里风光,市中心殖民建筑仍旧容光焕发,散发骄人功绩,似不曾离去。
这里有浓厚华人文化,几十年前华人登陆,在此大势发挥,几乎独享一面。寺庙多处可见,华人天性不变,求保佑求财富,应该很灵,因为香火不息。这里没升空的超高楼,买卖和八卦都在地面商铺进行,很贴地气。 这城市弥漫着华人气息,老建筑和新建的并立,旧的没淘汰,新的没取代,换代没取代。许多老建筑和庙寺,表面岁月的尘埃,轻吹的呵护,风采依旧,风韵年华不消;他们做到了 – 这社区给她品位,给她尊严,保留她的记忆。我们的确可以,我们做得到,勇往直前,不舍弃过去,不遗忘以往。