Isfahan Iran 伊朗伊斯法罕 3/2018 (4)

10-13/3/2018. From Kashan, I moved on to Isfahan, my fourth stop in Iran. This was the world’s second largest square and Isfahan’s most famous landmark, the Imam Square. Shops selling local handicrafts surround the square. Some design students were setting up stalls in the Imam Square to promote their designed accessories, including bracelets, anklets, and necklaces, to help needy students. I thought they looked pretty nice, chic, and inexpensive (each $4-8), also for a good cause, so I bought quite a few. No, I did not intend to wear them. Underneath those austere black robes, the girls wanted to adorn themselves, just like girls everywhere.

10-13/3/2018 从卡山我又转移目标，到在伊朗第四地点，伊斯法罕。急不及待冲到伊玛目广场（Imam Square ）一睹为快，最著名景点，世界第二大广场。中国朋友如果不知道世界哪是最大，政府该约你喝茶了。

广场区内的商店挺有特色，基本卖当地产品。刚好碰到德黑兰大学生在义卖她们设计的饰品。有手镯，脚镯，项链，看起来漂亮时髦，也不贵（每件4-8美金），也是件好事。在那黑袍下，女孩们像世界各地女孩一样爱美，有品位，有潮气。我没打算戴上。

Imam Square 伊玛目广场 — Hotel in Isfahan 下榻伊斯法罕酒店

The shops in and around Imam Square 伊玛目广场的商品摊

Fashion accesories by Iranian students 伊朗学生设计饰品 — The shops in and around Imam Square 伊玛目广场的商品摊

In and around the square, a wide-open space was interrupted only by mosques and low structures, the walls and surfaces adorned with intricate designs, colored to enhance its solemnity. Against a pure sky, these structures were so absorbing. My legs were leisurely, but my eyes were busy.

A row of young girls sat at the big entrance of a mosque, like little birds on a tree branch, taking selfies, jovially yakking away, really no difference from youths in any country. Though draped in black robes, that did not obscure the cool jeans and sports shoes on them. They beamed friendly and welcoming smiles, and when I replied with a triple-charm defensive—a smile, a nod, and a “hi!”—they responded with a little coy scream and a torrent of giggles. What a bunch of sunny youths.

Another group of children was out on a field trip with their teachers around the mosque. Seeing me from meters away, they rushed forward to surround me, shook my hands, and tried to speak with me. Lovely children, truly unforgettable. If only our world could be as innocent. Today I felt loved.

伊玛目广场参观附近回教堂，墙和顶画满精美图案，该费了不少功夫。一群少女在教堂大门口旁排排坐，像树枝上并肩一群麻雀，吱吱喳喳谈笑风生，自拍，跟任何国家青年没两样。身披着那黑袍，但遮盖不了袍下的牛仔裤和和颜色运动鞋。我临走前见她们微笑，就礼相往来微笑和招呼 ” 你们好”，没想到她们都大方的回敬。我来之前还以为这是个极度保守国家，眼睛接触是男女授受不亲的。真是一群阳光，好奇，礼貌的青年。

一群小朋友跟老师在这课外学习，在几十米处看到我，都涌前来围着我握手，拍照，设法跟我沟通。真的很可爱，很难忘。我们的世界如果是这样的毫无猜忌就好。今天真的很受宠，希望他们不会随着成长而丢了这无邪天真。

Islamic structures in and around Imam Square 在伊玛目广场周边伊斯兰风格建筑

Intricate design of the inner hall of these Islamic structures 大堂内部精美图案 — Islamic structures in and around Imam Square 在伊玛目广场周边伊斯兰风格建筑

On the streets, private cars were almost all white, while women were almost all black. Colorful cars were quite rare. A local explained that white was better at deflecting heat in this desert environment, which often goes above 40 degrees Celsius. So won’t the girls be baked in those black robes? No worry, while the men are baked to a golden brown, the girls still look so fair that they look barely defrosted.

马路上私家车几乎都是全白的，而路旁行走的是全黑袍的女人。马路上还没看到一辆红色或蓝色汽车。一本地人解释白色好抗热。那，那些女孩们的黑袍不是要把她们焗坏了吗。其实不用为她们担心，虽然男的都烤得棕黄，女孩则多眉清目秀，肤色洁白，看起来好像刚从冰箱拿出来还没解冻呢，更不用担心烤黑了。

So many white cars on Iranian streets 伊朗街道随处可见白车 — On the streets of Isfahan 伊斯法罕街景

Near Imam Square rose the Chenel Sotun Palace. It was neither elaborate nor boastful, just woody, natural, artistic, and quietly confident. I walked around and in it in quiet appreciation. I looked at the slender and tall wooden pillars, too big to hug, but it sure felt irresistible.

在伊玛目广场附近是这四十柱宫（Chenel Sotun)，一个大堂但我不知是什么名堂。没西方石砖皇宫教堂的高调，纯朴散发自然的俏丽，里外精致。没确认有没四十，但这些瘦长木柱足够把前堂气势完全大开，势压了小我。

I was looking forward to seeing the Si O Seh Bridge, another of Isfahan’s landmarks, after seeing postcard photos of people sitting at the foot of the bridge frolicking in the water. On arriving, I was stunned and stumped. There was no fluid under the bridge; it was very much like a swimming pool drained for cleaning. What do you call a river with no water in it? A riverbed? But would you call it a riverbed if no water flowed over it? If not for the bridge, I would not have guessed there was a river here. I was tickled by the whole scene and enjoyed it very much.

这桥也是出名地标，四世桥（Si O She）。来之前看过照片展示人们在桥底边坐着戏水，什是欢乐，来到这桥前一看，惊呆了。一条赤裸裸的河床，没见过河床干成这可怜样子，简直是榨干了。不会是城管把水抽干清洗河床吧。不会也来一招南水北调吧。不然那这水都流到谁家肥田去了。

Si O Seh Bridge and the dry river bed 四世桥和干河床

This comes as a big surprise, to see a big church in this Islamic republic. I smelled no tense air, only the gentle evening breeze; no security personnel, only the visitors left alone to wander. This was Vank Cathedral, a tourist site advertised on official channels. It was as if to say, Muslims and Christians can coexist even here in Islamic Iran. In fact, I had forgotten I was in Iran.

这是个意外发现，在这伊斯兰共和国参观这基督教堂。没闻到紧张气氛，没看到荷枪实弹的保安，只有傍晚的微风和悠闲自在的游客。这是旺克大教堂 (Vank Cathedral)，官方推为景点之一的古基督教堂，好像在说，基督和回教是是可以在这土上共存的。身处此景，我忘了我身处伊朗。

Inside Vank Cathedral 旺克大教堂内部 — Vank Cathedral 旺克大教堂

I wandered aimlessly and stumbled onto these streets. I was told this was one of the best areas, a rich-man area. No wonder I fit right in. At an ice cream shop, a local young man helped me buy saffron ice cream. As we chatted, four bouncy college girls noisily passed by and yelled “hello” as they danced past. I instinctively responded with a civil greeting. They stopped to chat. These were students of psychology, accountancy, languages, etc., vivacious, curious, having a mind of their own, not at all coy or conservative as we thought we knew. When I suggested taking a selfie, they frantically licked their feathers, offered their best pose, then flashed a sweetened smile. I just hope they always remain sunny-side-up underneath those black robes.

瞎逛瞎撞来到这几条街道, 听说这是富人区，怪不得我如鱼得水。在家冰淇淋店跟个年轻人在聊时，四个女大学生蹦蹦跳跳路过时展喉打了个哈喽招呼，我本能礼貌回应后她们都停下来聊。她们读会计，心理学，语文。很开朗，活泼，好奇，大方。我一说拍照，她们都仓促撩弄头发，摆好姿态，给甜美笑容再加糖。伊朗的年轻人，尤其女孩子，思想独立，很有想法。不知为何由衷为她们惋惜，希望她们的阳光不会被乌云般的黑袍覆盖了。

An upper classy shopping street in Isfahan 伊斯法罕高档购物街 — Walking mall in Isfahan 伊斯法罕步行街

I had been eating kebabs, fried fish, stew, rice, and Persian bread. All good. I have seen a few traditional Iranian restaurants where the servers usher diners to their tables or beds, your choice. Reclining on the bed to eat was a tradition going back to ancient Greece, that being served while reclining on the bed was a sign of power and luxury. I am hungry for food and power, so the bed it is. So bed-and-breakfast and breakfast-in-bed meant a very different thing here. Other diners were having fun, chatting heartily, laughing and having a merry time, but my stomach was twisted in knots. Restaurants here usually provide bread. Iranians eat rice but also plenty of bread. Passing by two bread shops, I saw locals queueing to buy bread fresh off the earthen oven. Freshly baked and eaten hot, they taste like manna from heaven.

这几天吃的有肉串，烤鸡肉饭，炸鱼饭，面饼夹羊肉饼。昨天到一家伊朗特色餐厅吃饭 – 没桌子，就坐床上吃。看他们谈笑风生的吃喝聊，我倒觉得坐得别扭，好像肠胃都打了结。伊朗吃米饭，也吃面包。路过两家不同面包店，客户排队买厨师火炉现烤出来的面包。这面包是我一路跑必备的干粮，不怕挤压，不怕变味，随意搭配，不怕溅漏，不需刀叉筷子，不占地方，好吃健康，纸皮般厚，手撕送嘴，太方便了。伊朗面包与美国的可乐，真是绝配，天作之美也。