Stop 3 – Bali. Visited from 1-5 December 2022. Lombok from 6-9 December, then returned to Bali from 10 – 15 December 2022.
After enjoying the rich culture of Yogyakarta and the excitement of Mount Bromo on Java Island, I headed toward Bali. I took the train from Probolinggo to Banyuwangi to stay overnight. The next day, I proceeded to the Ketapang ferry terminal and then boarded a slow ferry ride across the sea to Gilimanuk on Bali Island less than an hour later. From Gilimanuk, I took a public bus to Denpasar and the last leg to Seminyak. Though barely 150 KM away, I crawled through the bottleneck of one lane in each direction to arrive only after sunset. It felt like everyone was in town.
The famous Bali is an open house on some of its world most gorgeous beaches. The free spirits of the world have converged here. Lay out the smorgasbord, let the drinks flow. Let the party begin.
I couldn’t wait to see the beaches near Seminyak. These beaches, among them Double Six, and Legian, form one long continuous beach. However, the introduction wasn’t great – Legian and Double Six Beach were awash with rubbish. I thought the aftermath of daily wild parties, but I was told it was the ocean current tide that dumped this rubbish here. OK, blame it on nature.
In between the beaches, I located Pura Masceti and Pura Petitenget Temple but was only able to see them from outside. I ended the day sitting down to a nice Balinese dinner, so well presented I felt like a dignitary.
The following day (2 December), I rented a motorbike so I could run wild and set my spirit free. I rode to Canggu, competing with other bikes and cars already clogging up the narrow roads and lanes. Young men went topless, sometimes with airy singlets, and proud tattooed bodies, rushing through the streets like carefree renegades, very much at home. Not to be outdone, the girls and women were no more dressed than the men, some almost topless and exposing their belly buttons, rushing around the streets very much in their own element. The locals were happy to accommodate and indulge. So these Western vacationers have created their own world here, enjoying the seductive beaches, surfing the waves, binge shopping at its many boutique shops, indulging in the curated good food, and breathing the air of freedom. Tiring out after a full day’s fun, the many spas lining the streets are ready to get them back in shape for the next day.
I then rode to Kuta Beach, another surfer beach like Canggu. The young ones rode their bikes all over towns beach-hopping, carrying their large surfboards on the side, paddled out to the wide-open sea, then riding the waves ashore.
I was unleashed, left alone to roam these free shores and kick the fine sand on its many beaches, gorging on its local and international delectable food. They know how to throw a party!
Time to leave the beaches alone for a short while (4 December) and move a bit inland. From Seminyak, I took a taxi to Ubud, 30 km away. I checked into the guesthouse surrounded by big tropical green plants and flowers. Ubud already promised to be lush, green, and Balinese. I started climbing Campuhan Rift Walk, a 1.2-kilometer trail along a ridge. I was transported from the noisy busy streets to a natural botanical world of fresh, green vegetation. I breathed the fresh air and relaxed in the sound of silence.
In Ubud, the world is green. This land is overgrown with trees, bushes, and crops with the healthiest and freshest green. I rode my bike to Tegallalang Rice Terraces (5 December). Wow, what stunning rice terraces, like layers of green waves cascading downhill, surrounded by lush greenery of lanky coconut trees and scenic landscapes. Everywhere I ran my motorbike, I saw rice fields between houses, some a watery field, others lush green, while others golden brown; each its curated landscape, each its irresistible charm. Every inch of this land is laid green. Rice is their staple, and coconut is the milk.
I wondered about the streets of shops that tempt visitors with local crafts. Old Hindu temples and palaces both cultural and spiritual, add to the Balinese allure. I was captivated by an open dance school by the roadside where children practiced traditional cultural dance with intricate finger movements, complex footwork, and expressive facial expressions, particularly eye movements, that tell their Balinese stories.
In all, a wonderful Balinese picture story.
From Ubud, I would leave Bali to travel to Gili Triwangan (6-7 December), just off the northwest coast of Lombok, then to the main island of Lombok and stayed from 8-9 December (see next stop – Stop 4). After spending the past 4 days away in Lombok, I resumed my Bali excursionby taking the boat from Kuta, Lombok back toward the island close to Bali, Nusa Penida.
Now back in Nusa Penida (11th Dec), I started my rendezvous with more beaches, including Kelingking Beach, Broken Beach and Crystal Beach. Kelingking Beach in particular is stunning. From atop the vertical cliff, the sea came ashore in the most seductive turquoise, caressing the white sandy beach.
The following day, I rode for an hour to another part of Nusa Penida to see Diamond Beach, then, next to it Atuh Beach. Diamond Beach, like Kelingking Beach, is another gem, a diamond. Tucked at the bottom of a high vertical cliff, it is accessed by descending a steep set of stairs adhered to the cliffside, making it untouched and unspoiled.
Seeing these beauties from afar and atop is mesmerizing. Its beaches of crystal clear and turquoise blue are hypnotic. I took my time to stare, picking different spots to admire them from different angles. Up here, the crowd is dispersed, giving me room to take it all in in my sweet time. Nusa Penida is a gem, the rarest kind.
I am not done enjoying Bali yet. From Nusa Penida, I took a boat to loop back to the island of Bali. I resumed my Bali party by visiting Uluwatu Temple, a Balinese Hindu temple perched high on a cliff at the very south-western tip of the island peninsular, looking out to the vast Indian Ocean. Monkeys were there to “welcome” visitors. I was a bit overwhelmed by the hospitality when one of them took my baseball cap without asking. When the sun set, it scattered it last glorious golden glow over the horizon. I then stayed on for a kecat performance, followed by a late scrumptious Balinese dinner.
My obsession with the beaches continues, in effect a pursuit of liberation. The following day, I rode my bike to Balangan Beach, envying the many young surfers in the sea riding the waves under the hot day sun. The girls will not be less than the boys chasing the waves.
Next came Padang padang Beach, a cute small hidden beach for the exclusives and discerning. To end this crazy beach party, my last fling took me to Melasti Beach and finally Pendawa Beach.
Simply exquisite!
This brings an end to my 3 weeks in Indonesia. I am sure there is much more to see and enjoy. I leave that to the sequel.
Click the link below to go to the next stop, Stop 4 Lombok
Click the link below to start from Stop 1, Jakarta:
Indonesia 3-week route map:
Map legend:
Jakarta, in blue marker:
- Jakarta
Yogyakarta, in red marker:
- Yogyakarta
- Borobudur
- Prambanan
- Probolinggo
- Cemoro Lawang
- Mount Bromo
- Probolingo
- Banyuwangi
Bali (1), in black marker:
- Denpasar, Bali
- Seminyak, Bali
- Canggu Beach, Bali
- Kuta Beach, Bali
- Ubud, Bali
Lombok, in purple marker:
- Gili Trawangan
- Pantai Aan, Lombok
- Pantai Merese
- Areguling Beach
- Tampah Beach
- Mawang Beach
- Kuta Lombok Beach
Bali (2), in orange marker:
- Nusa Penida Island
- South Kuta, Bali
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