How to experience the best of Central America in 50 days solo and overland – Stop 7 Ometepe, Nicaragua

4-6 March 2024 From La Fortuna, I attempted to cross into Nicaragua, via the Panas Blancas border crossing to Ometepe. Initially, I took a taxi to a small bus stop at El Tanque, where I caught a bus to Upala. At Upala, I waited for 5 hours for the next bus to Penas Blancas. While on the bus, I realized that Penas Blancas was only a border crossing with limited accommodation options. At the eleventh hour, I alighted the bus at La Cruz. The next morning, I took another bus to Penas Blancas. Once I was in Nicaragua, I hurriedly boarded a yellow bus carrying children and mothers, bound for Rivas. From Rivas, I took a slow and cheap taxi to the ferry jetty. I was in Ometepe in the late afternoon. I had read online it was going to be messy, but I wanted to prove to myself it was no big deal. Never say die.

In front of the hotel at La Cruz, before leaving for the border to Nicaragua

Walking across the border

Ometepe is an island in Lake Nicaragua, formed by two volcanoes, one dead, one alive – the active Concepcion and the dormant Maderas. An isthmus joined the two to create an island shaped like a peanut. As the ferry approached the island, Volcan Concepcion stood majestically right there to welcome me.

I rented a scooter and rode for more than 150 km in just 2 days, exploring San Jose del Sur, Charco Verde, Santos Domingo Beach, El Pital, Balgue Beach, and finally witnessing the sunset at Punta Jesus Maria. Everywhere I went, the 2 volcanoes seemed omnipresent, ever a stern reminder. Volcano Concepcion though deadly, is stunning. The ride was smooth and easy, as all the roads were paved with paving stones, occasionally interrupted by speed bumps – perhaps easier to reassemble after an earthquake.

Ferry approaching Ometepe, Volcan Concepcion awaits

Red hot volcano from the balcony of my hostel

Volcan Concepcion, seen from Charco Verde, Ometepe

Chocolate nut ball and pineapple drink at El Pital, Ometepe

Volcano Concepcion, at the Ometepe jetty

At Punta Jesus Maria, Volcano Concepcion awaiting the sunset

Beautiful sunset at Punta Jesus Maria — At Punta Jesus Maria, Volcano Concepcion awaiting the sunset

The trees and shrubs were lush and fresh, like lettuce green. Bananas thrive here; I have been having bananas as fruit and fried side dishes during almost every meal. The locals can’t live without it. I wonder if their once being called a “banana republic” was endearing or derogatory. I love bananas, they love bananas. And I am sure you love it too. Let’s all go bananas!