4-6 March 2024 From La Fortuna, I attempted to cross into Nicaragua, via the Panas Blancas border crossing to Ometepe. Initially, I took a taxi to a small bus stop at El Tanque, where I caught a bus to Upala. At Upala, I waited for 5 hours for the next bus to Penas Blancas. While on the bus, I realized that Penas Blancas was only a border crossing with limited accommodation options. At the eleventh hour, I alighted the bus at La Cruz. The next morning, I took another bus to Penas Blancas. Once I was in Nicaragua, I hurriedly boarded a yellow bus carrying children and mothers, bound for Rivas. From Rivas, I took a slow and cheap taxi to the ferry jetty. I was in Ometepe in the late afternoon. I had read online it was going to be messy, but I wanted to prove to myself it was no big deal. Never say die.
Ometepe is an island in Lake Nicaragua, formed by two volcanoes, one dead, one alive – the active Concepcion and the dormant Maderas. An isthmus joined the two to create an island shaped like a peanut. As the ferry approached the island, Volcan Concepcion stood majestically right there to welcome me.
I rented a scooter and rode for more than 150 km in just 2 days, exploring San Jose del Sur, Charco Verde, Santos Domingo Beach, El Pital, Balgue Beach, and finally witnessing the sunset at Punta Jesus Maria. Everywhere I went, the 2 volcanoes seemed omnipresent, ever a stern reminder. Volcano Concepcion though deadly, is stunning. The ride was smooth and easy, as all the roads were paved with paving stones, occasionally interrupted by speed bumps – perhaps easier to reassemble after an earthquake.
The trees and shrubs were lush and fresh, like lettuce green. Bananas thrive here; I have been having bananas as fruit and fried side dishes during almost every meal. The locals can’t live without it. I wonder if their once being called a “banana republic” was endearing or derogatory. I love bananas, they love bananas. And I am sure you love it too. Let’s all go bananas!
Click here to go to the next Stop 8 – Granada, Nicaragua
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