Zimbabwe – Victoria Falls / Zambezi 津巴布韦 – 维多利亚瀑布 赞比西 11/2018 Stop 17 站

6-7/11/2018. Can’t come to Zimbabwe and not see Victoria Falls, right? So this 12-hour bus ride from Harare must be embarked upon.

I stayed at a rest camp so near to the Falls that I literally took a stroll there. After the usual check-in procedure, I groped in the dark to find the lodge. Someone answered the locked door when I knocked. When the door opened, I discovered the lodge was already occupied by more than 15 local men, in the few bedrooms and the living room. I couldn’t say I wanted to move—that would be rude and racist. What was I to do? I did not feel safe being thrown together with 15 strangers under one roof. But they were very good, and they made room for me, by vacating one of the rooms for me. Otherwise, I would have been sleeping in the hall with a few other men.

It wasn’t peak season, so there weren’t many tourists—the downside being the water didn’t flow as much. Nevertheless, it was a sight to behold, even though I have seen both Niagara (Canada) and Iguazu (Brazil/Argentina) when both were very watery. Water at the top of the cliffs continued to move forward in a hurry, reaching for the cliff edges. At some places, it fell like water from a tea spout, while elsewhere it rushed like a toilet flush. As it dived in an attempt to reach the bottom, it formed a wide curtain the whole length of the cliff faces, vapor emanated from it, like dust stirred up in a stampede. As it charged forward and touched the bottom, it was egged on by its own roar. Water goes where it must go. As the Chinese saying goes, man climbs upward, water flows downward. A waterfall that moves with such speed, such volume and loudness, is always incredibly stirring. It was a spectacle, it was spectacular! After the visit, I strolled back to the camp as though I had just taken a stroll in my back garden, paying USD 30 for the privilege.

In the evening, I went for a relaxing sunset cruise, enjoying the calm and beautiful Zambezi River, the African sunset, and the alcohol (yes, this is still flowing while the petrol pump has dried up). Some hippos frolicked in the water, and a croc lazed on the bank. It may be calm water—but do not be unsuspecting of the crocs beneath, reminds a Malaysian proverb.

 6-7/11/2018到津巴布韦而不到维多利亚瀑布就说不过去了。这十二小时路程横跨津巴布韦在所难免。入住的营地在小镇中心也离瀑布不远。办完入住手续后，营地里抹黑找房子。敲门后，房子已住满15多位本地人，剩下床位就在大厅， 跟其他非洲朋友一起了。心有不安但又不好意思开口，以免有歧视之嫌。还好，这些年青小伙把队长的房子让出来，让我放心。

我慢条斯理散步到瀑布入口，虽错过高峰水量， 还是声势浩大， 冲水时似壶口时似马桶。游完后又慢悠悠步行回营地，有如刚从自后花园散步回来。傍晚坐小艇游赞比西河，老外游客平静的河上借酒陶醉，河马在水里乘凉， 河边一条鳄鱼不动的趴着，平静但危机四伏，津巴布韦还真玄。