Tashkent Uzbekistan 乌兹别克斯坦塔什干 5/2018 (3)

6-8/5/2018. From Shymkent in Kazakhstan, I took a taxi to go west toward Tashkent, Uzbekistan. An hour later, the taxi dropped me at the border. I then walked into Uzbekistan and straight into Tashkent, which is conveniently just next to the border. Walking across the border made me feel like an explorer rather than a tourist. I walked like a tall man through the front gate, with nothing to hide, nothing to declare, instead of being airdropped into someone’s backyard. Another taxi driver then drove me to the city center, but he tried to fleece me by doubling the negotiated price. I had no hotel booking, thinking I would just arrive at the city center and look around. But there were few suitable choices. This was also a weekend, and money changers were shut. Otherwise, it was a warm welcome on a hot summer day.

Tashkent was surprisingly modern. It is, after all, the capital, the largest city of Uzbekistan, and its economic center. Most young people here speak some English and are friendly. Although most people here are traditionally Muslims, I didn’t see many outward signs of the faith here. Like Kazakhstan, there is a sizable presence of Russians here, and they were particularly friendly. Russia is already the largest country in the world by landmass. It became obvious on this trip that the Russians’ presence is much wider, its sphere of influence more so. Yet, it only has half the population of the United States. How did they achieve that?

I quickly unloaded and headed straight to the city’s main square, Amir Timur Square.

6-8/5/2018 一大早离开奇姆肯特, 的士直奔乌兹别克斯坦，一小时多后到了边检。从一个国家徒步进入另一国感觉很光明正大，是从人家大门进去的。坐飞机空降入境好像偷渡到人家的后院，感觉有点鬼鬼祟祟。入境后就是塔什干, 乌兹别克斯坦的首都，也是最大都市。过境后叫了的士谈好价到市中心，没想到抵达后司机又漫天要价。没预定酒店，以为到市中心肯定不缺选择，哪知事与愿违；且今天是周末，货币兑换窗口和窗外黄牛都回家陪老婆和相公去了，弄得我很狼狈，也活该，即兴的事不能多干，会败兴。

塔什干这城市意外的现代化，布局跟阿拉木图差不多可是更多高调建筑，但楼层不高；年轻人会多多少少英语，且非常有善。大多数都是回教徒， 可是街上宗教的元素少见。

跟哈萨克斯坦一样， 这里也有不少俄罗斯人，异常友善。俄罗斯已是面积最广的国家, 此行感触是其实际实力范围还要广。无论是格力米亚， 乌克兰， 或格鲁吉亚，或中亚的影响，俄罗斯的手都延伸到这些国家。人口只有一亿五，美国的一半不到，俄罗斯已基本占了亚洲大片土地， 它笑到最后，好像是至今的赢家。

卸下行李，没提前计划，先找个中心点再说，第一站到Amir Temur 广场。

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Within walking distance of Amir Timur Square is Independence Square. It is the central place to wander around to see other landmarks and attractions of the city. The grass and trees are kempt and aligned. The sky is high, radiant, and cloudless. No tall skyscrapers to obscure the wide expanse. The new buildings are dressed in marble white and polished to exude purity. Everything is well spaced out so there is no friction. There were few souls wandering around on this Sunday. It was sedate and peaceful.

自由广场步行距离内有独立广场和历史意义纪念碑和建筑。一片空旷大地，绿茵地毯修剪得齐整，绿树听话各就各位，新建筑几乎是洁白大理石建筑，没超高，不妨碍视线，各有自己足够空间；蔚蓝高空没一丝白云，更显无限；大楼线条画得那么清晰，对市容的整齐干净好像很挑剔。今天是休息日，在市中心，行人寥寥无几，好像人去楼空，好寂静；独自享受这古今中外场景，很修心养性。

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I had the chance to also take the metro here. This workhorse was clunky and looked like it had served without any complaint for decades. I then walked to the central Chorsu Market, sitting on the ground like a giant dome. Inside, it was as large and open as an indoor stadium, with no columns to hold up the dome roof or obstruct the views. In one sweeping glance, I could see everything produced under the sun in Uzbekistan – nuts, sausages, cheese, dried fruits, herbs and spices, pickled vegetables and a large array of stuff too alien to an alien. Next to the dome was another market building, a see-through with no walls and an open-plan interior. Different stalls were well stocked with vegetables of countless varieties and colors – mushroom, color pepper, cauliflower, tomatoes, cabbages, potatoes, leafy vegetables, and many more. While some may not be homegrown, for a country 75% covered by desert, this is a land of plenty.

今天体验这里地铁，到中央大市场看看。地铁老成持重，很实惠，很便利，把我送到目的地。市场在圆形大屋顶下，摆了无数摊位，没支柱，一览无遗琳琅满目的货品和土产， 像个小天下，非常热闹。要知道百姓们吃什么的， 这里转一圈就清楚了。往下走， 看到一小餐厅在搅大锅饭才知道乌兹别克斯坦也吃大锅饭的，原来共产影响国家都有吃大锅饭习惯。

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Around here sprawled the old town of Tashkent. The streets looked deserted, the local houses tightly shuttered; there were no floating clouds in the sky. The trees stood motionless in the still air. No stray dogs roamed the street. Everyone seemed to be well domesticated behind those doors. The neighborhood was at a standstill, frozen in time.

As I drifted around, by chance I stumbled upon a big square, Khast Imam Square and Mosque. The hush was unusually palpable. With only a few people walking on the square, and no trace of any clouds in the deep blue sky, everything looked so still and mystical.

在塔什干的老城区溜达，多见识这里风土人情。走大街钻小巷，但行人无几， 连浪狗和懒猫都不见；简陋平民房，门户紧闭；纯蓝的天篷，没一丝浮云；没风吹草动，这大地鸦雀无声，皆处于静态，唯我独行。走着走着忽然巧遇一个大清真寺，Khast – Imam 广场和清真寺。在这寂静背景，设计精巧，颜色搭配巧妙，如虚构的绘图。

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The people, the place, and everything in between and around appeared so novel. So much to take in that I forgot when to stop. It was 4 p.m. now, and my engine had been running since this morning. I sat in a European-styled restaurant and ordered a salad, stewed beef, a mashed potato ball, and finishing with a red berry dessert. So much feasting in a day. Thoroughly satisfying.

截然不同的文化和风貌，一切那么新颖奇异，满怀童心好奇，钢筋的双腿，充沛的精力，早上走到下午四点，风尘仆仆，终于落脚吃午饭。点了希腊色拉，俄式炖牛肉再盖上土豆球， 再来个焗红莓甜品，饥肠辘辘，这餐搭配绝妙，有品位，付了二十美金， 摸摸肚子，非常满意的一天，期待后头更多好戏。

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