The best of traditions and modernity – Japan in 25 days

Stop 4 – Kyoto, Japan. Visited from 3 October 2024

From Hakone, I moved on to Kyoto. Others along the way told me I was going to like it. How do they know, right? 

It was drizzly and kept going like this for the first two days. It wasn’t even serious rain, not enough to wash the days out. I sauntered to Toji Temple, a Japanese Buddhist temple, in a big compound laid with small pebbles. I was greeted by an enormous temple and a five-story pagoda that looked dark in the dreary weather. After this appetizing start, I proceeded to Fushimi Inari and was immediately welcomed at the entrance with vermilion shrine gates and shrines. Umbrellas were already fully deployed, clogging the steps and squares as visitors continued to swirl around the shrine and gates. Shrine gates of different sizes, mostly of the same color, formed a tunnel to usher us through the steps. Fushimi Inari is said to have thousands of them.

Still fresh from the brightness of the shrine gates, and while still getting my bearings, I stumbled upon another shrine, Yasaka Shrine. The Maruyama Park happened to be nearby. A small park that tries to restore the inner calm inside us – what a Japanese garden is good at doing. I kept plowing on, excited by every new sight. I found myself wandering down Hanamikoji-dori Street, a street so traditionally Japanese. The street was lined on both sides with traditional double-story Japanese terraced shophouses, incredibly each house’s façade was unique. I read that Geishas could be spotted on this street but not this time, not today. Just as it looked like the day would end prematurely, as it continued to be overcast, Keninnji, a Buddhist Temple appeared.

What a day! What a blast!

Kyoto, Japan. Visited 4th October 2024

Exploring Kyoto continues for the second full day. The drizzle unabated.   

I rode a bus to Kiyomizu-dera, a signature Buddhist temple. The foliage was starting to turn yellow, mixed with abundant green. Watered by the rain that had been falling, the vegetation looked fresh and oily. A pagoda or tall tower would stand out from the green. The temple halls initially had a red color theme, then turned black with large, slopy tile roofs. Japanese, Chinese, Caucasians, even some hijab-wearing girls dressed in kimonos, and men in traditional robes, made it a time in the past. Everyone wanted to immerse themselves in Japanese culture and history. It was a wonderful time enjoying nature while reveling in the rich heritage.

Still licking my lips, savoring the aftertaste, I accidentally wandered down Sannen-zaka Path and Matsubara-dori, both traditional Japanese streets lined with shops selling mostly uniquely Japanese items. I had the best-tasting sweet soya beancurd here, then tried a never-before-encountered soy steamed dumpling, followed by roasted green tea cake. They know how to make the humble ingredients taste good. After the pleasant diversion, I found Chionin Temple, consisting of a few magnificent halls, all perfectly contented to be somber and serious in dark colors, including their prominent large roofs.

I then walked to the Nishiki market and a few streets around there. Long rows of little shops selling cute Japanese products. I was seduced by the little fun food they had crafted. These are small eats, luring you to try the inexhaustible varieties. Some are on skewers, so you do not have to lick your dirty fingers or nail art. I ended up trying a stick of Wagyu beef, tempura of scallops, squid, and a flambeed rice cake – all in the name of food art appreciation. It was now dark. I walked down the Kamo Riverbank and next to it, the Pontocho Alley, to end the day reluctantly. Still insatiable.

Kyoto, Japan. Visited 5th October 2024

Exploring Kyoto continues for the third full day – I am having a runaway appetite.

The sun finally made a grand appearance today. Everyone basked in the sun; the smiles looked more radiant, the foliage fresher, the sky bluer, and the photos appeared in a new light! Hurray!

My first visit for the day was to Nijo Castle, a castle protected by high walls, a moat, and boastful gates. Beautiful gardens are planted to calm any nerves while under protection. It was a most delightful day – of blue sky and pleasant weather, of intriguing history and curative gardens.  

Now, onto the next experience, the Philosopher’s Path, to complete my healing. It was a quiet-flowing canal of shallow, clear water, arched over by tree branches, lined on both sides by paths. Ducks paddled discreetly and big carbs drifted lackadaisically. If you have to speak, whisper, or use telepathy. Visitors come here to stroll and ponder. What a simple idea to evoke an emotional connection with yourself!

Along and around these paths are shrines and temples worth visiting. Eikando Temple and Nanzenji Temple are large temple complexes with gardens extending to the green mountains. It is a place to relax, nay, to heal, even if only for the day.

Kyoto, Japan. Visited 6th October 2024

Exploring Kyoto continues for the fourth full day. The sun again obliged with its proud presence.

Slightly out of town, I left Arashiyama Bamboo Forest till last. The crowd was already swarming the town when I arrived. Everyone was bubbly and excited. The glorious sun promised it would be a great day. I was greeted by cute little shops with sweet-smiling purveyors tempting my weakened resolve. I crumbled and walked into one, emerging with a cup of frozen fried honeyed sweet potato. I sank my teetering teeth into a stick of it – it was frozen-cold, its texture like it was almost defrosted. What an excellent yummy summer treat – a humble sweet potato given the royal treatment.

We finally converged at the Arashiyama Bambo Forest. I have seen bamboo trees in other Asian countries before but marveled at how the Japanese have created a theme out of something so simple! The sunshine shone above and through them, bathing each with its warmth, making the bamboo look phenomenal, their photos better. And how they sweeten this experience with cute fun eats along the way – it should bamboozle no one. But wait – there is more to the untold story. Walking out of the narrow streets and the shadow of the enveloping tall bamboo forest, I came into an open space.  The cool and calm Katsura River flowed quietly next to the mountain. A big open area of promenade where the sun shines without much of a shadow. How Arashiyama is made so special – another wonderful place and a beautiful Japanese story.

My last stop of the day was the Kinkakuji Temple, a Zen Buddhist temple. It is also called the Temple of the Golden Pavillion, for good reason. Set against the green mountain under the blue sky, it looked stunning – a clean glittering gold temple.

With this, I ended my Kyoto visit, appropriately with a golden full stop.

 

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The best of traditions and modernity – Japan in 25 days

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The best of traditions and modernity – 25 days in Japan

Itinerary: Tokyo>Nikko>Hakone>Kyoto>Osaka>Nara>Himeji>Hiroshima>Miyajima