See the renaissance, from old to New Delhi 10/2023 (Stop 14)

22-23th, October 2023 New Delhi, India

From Agra I now took the train to New Delhi, the capital of India, to see what has become of India.

First, a look at her past – the Red Fort of New Delhi, not to be confused with that in Agra. At the entrance, the gates, the bastions, and the high walls, in stark red sandstone, stood rock solid, well dressed, and ready for the occasion. This is now for the spectators, so it had to look its best. The walls looked sandpapered-smooth, the parapet baring its teeth, the bastions looked well anchored, and the domes like new hats. Overall, it looked flaming hot. The moat of grass showed it was ready to be flooded again if needed. The Sunday crowd came in droves and with great spirit.

Inside were palaces and pavilions, separated by expansive inner courtyards, adorned with cookie cutter-shaped arches and domes that float like parachutes. Some were built of red sandstone, some of white marble. Security checks were tight, to try to preserve them for progeny.

At the entrance of the Red Fort, New Delhi

The Naubat Khana, the drum house that stands at the entrance between the outer and inner court at the Red Fort in Delhi

The Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Audience), in the Red Fort, where the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan and his successors heard the citizens' grievances. — The Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Audience), in the Red Fort, where the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan and his successors heard the citizens’ grievances.

Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audiences), in the Red Fort, where the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan received state guests — The Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Audience), in the Red Fort, where the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan and his successors heard the citizens’ grievances.

My attempt to see Akshardham was unforgettable, not just the big crowd on a Sunday I encountered in the subway but how it managed to still deliver the people to their destinations in the mayhem. A few uniformed men carrying sticks to goad the crowd in line; sometimes they raised their voices like headmasters at little children. At Akshardham, there were more long queues and form-filling. We were herded like sheep through narrow and tight winding chutes. Then they wanted to help me keep my mobile phone safe. So I decided to walk away – probably the most difficult attraction that I didn’t see.

I then rushed to India Gate, a war memorial honoring the fallen soldiers of the past. It is also a wide-open space for all to be away from the crowd and be with the crowd. It is a modest way to enjoy a good time with friends, with the Gate as the focal point. The last hour of the sunset illuminated the sky purplish pink and was the culmination of a beautiful Sunday. I tried to see Rashtrapati Bhavan, the Presidential Palace, and other significant buildings but was kept a long way away by guarding soldiers.

This is the modern India I saw – confident, hopeful, but nervous.