See the new South Korea in 20 days – Seoul

Stop 1 – Seoul, South Korea. Visited 19 – 20 October 2024

I have spent almost 25 days in Japan in the past few weeks. From the last stop in Japan, Hiroshima, I flew to Seoul, the capital of South Korea. For those of you who have become enamored with Korea through K-pop, Korean dramas, and its ubiquitous products, I want to make sure you realize there is another Korea to the north, the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea. Don’t try to be funny by asking me why its name has “democratic” in it.

For the first 2 days, the weather turned unconducive; I was greeted with rain that would not stop and temperature drops that signaled the advent of winter. I succumbed and was under the weather. When the sun finally came out, I first darted to see Gyeongbokgung Palace. Many were already there, all dressed up, in colorful hanbok, the traditional Korean dress. Wrapped in them were people of all types – black, white, brown, yellow, men, and women. Those who were Western- dressed looked like they were dressed for a carnival. The palace is a large complex introduced by gates that almost grabbed all the attention with their size and elaborate designs. We were then ushered into spacious courtyards, and finally, multiple palatial halls, each old but still standing out and standing tall, emanating grandeur.

When I saw a few tables on the sidewalks serving fried chicken, I was eager to experience the Korean culture of chimaek – the pairing eating of fried chicken and beer. I almost had an overdose of chicken in one serving. Friend to golden and wash down with the golden brew, it did not feel greasy and guilty. It was fun to be in a K-drama.

The next day, I visited another palace – the Changdeokgung Palace. The style was in many ways similar to Gyeongbokgung Palace, with gates, pavilion halls, and courtyards that matched the status of the royals. The vast courtyard under a blue sky provides an open space to enjoy the day, breathe the air, and clear the mind. From there, I wandered to Bukchon Hanok Village to join others to appreciate traditional Korean houses.

Seoul, South Korea. Visited 21 – 23 October 2024

Seoul is such a vibrant city. In contrast to Japan, they looked very Westernized. Whether it is Americans selling coffee, fried chicken, or burgers, the cultural invasion is not so subtle. While K-pop is popular and has spread far and wide, American music is often played from the shops.

Young people are on the streets, drinking and dining, out and about. Restaurants and cafes are on every street. Food is bountiful and plentiful, and drinks flow like rivers. Surprisingly, not many look obese.

For the next few days, I tried to have a better feel of the city’s pulse. I wandered down Insadong Pedestrian Street, window-shopped in style in Gangnam, walked on a former highway overpass Seoullo, and took a look-see in one of the largest shopping malls, CEOX Mall, and the Starfield Library housed in it. At the end of the day, I took a walk along Cheonggyecheon Stream. It pulsates, day and night, with strong beats. It is youthfully vibrant.

Seoullo, a linear park on a former highway overpass

On my last day in Seoul, I joined others for a DMZ (demilitarized zone) tour – a buffer zone used to separate the 2 Koreas. They used to be one country. Then, differences in ideologies became irreconcilable. They fought each other until it was decided that the country would be separated at the 38th parallel. It was demilitarized but tensed – technically, they are still at war. Families were separated. Their fates turn out drastically different. Regrettably, we were only allowed into the observatory to look into North Korea, not the Joint Security Area at Panmunjom, where the soldiers from both sides stand face to face. No photos of North Korea were allowed in the observatory. It was hugely disappointing not to be close to the line in the sand, the line that marks the diametrically different fates, like the yin and yang on the South Korean flag.