See the free states of the Baltics in 3 weeks – Poznan Poland 5/2018 (4)

24-25/5/2018, The plan was to cross Poland and go north to see how the Baltic states were faring after leaving the former Soviet Union. After Warsaw, I took the 8 a.m. bus heading for Poznan. It was almost farmland all the way, a time well-spent cloud gazing and watching the cows grazing. At about 1 p.m., I arrived at Poznan. The bus station was in a big shopping mall, with full Wi-Fi coverage. I made use of it to order an Uber to take me to my accommodation in the city center. While here, I also obtained the tourist information I needed in the tourist information center. It was so seamless, as though everything had been put on a platter for me. They served with attitude, with a lot of smiley teeth and warmth that rivaled the summer sun. I didn’t think I was that important, honestly. Now, this is what I call welcoming.

Poznan was deceptively low-key. It was a mid-sized city that seemed to have something for everyone living here, though it didn’t have much buzz. There was an old town and many cathedrals that showed the depth of its history and religion. The shopping malls were impressively modern and welcoming. A small-town feel allowed for neighborly love, a suburban feel to cycle, roller-skate, and walk the dogs through its rustic surroundings, a river where young people congregated and cheered to drinking and, when night fell, packed into a stadium for loud music. If any of these activities were too worldly or decadent, there were many churches to seek forgiveness.

The people have survived much. Now it is time to live. Good job.

24-25/5/2018 计划跨波兰北上到前苏联体的波罗的国看看。早上八点大巴离开华沙往波兹南，一路是农场风光，下午一点多抵达。车站就在大商场，大商场无线全覆盖，网约辆优步车到住宿，顺便在旅游信息中心取了所需信息，车到后往市中心跑；住宿就在市中心步行街，中心就是老城大广场。都笑脸迎人，而我又那么平凡，很受宠；全程 一气呵成，真是一帆风顺；这才是真正的热烈欢迎。

像小镇风味又颇具城市格调，这里生活如意，样样俱全；这里有使人肃然起敬的老教堂和回味的老城区，也有现代城市的购物商场；没大都市的车水马龙，更像小镇的田野风光；休闲环境，骑自行车，滑轮，带狗散步享受安逸；河边年轻人在河边集聚，野餐畅饮，谈笑风声；夜晚降临后，成群结队到体育馆一起混派对；如内疚生活过度萎靡，可这里无数教堂忏悔。历代灾劫, 无数变迁, 该开始真正生活了。

Young people often gather along the narrow Warta River to socialize, barbeque, and, of course, to booze. I was told they come here regularly, mostly students from the colleges around here. No wonder there is no rowdiness. At first, pockets of them scattered along the bank, but as the afternoon progressed, the ground became quite crowded. A young man stripped to his underpants and dove into the river’s shallow end. After groping around, he finally emerged with a handphone held high in his hand and handed it to a girl. The crowd gave thunderous applause. The youthful innocence was wonderful to watch. When the sun finally set, they walked in groups toward another part of the city, where the crowd packed into a rock concert venue for the time of their lives. I can be forever young here.

在波兹南这条狭小瓦尔塔河，年轻人把两岸变成聚集圣地，扎堆烧烤，畅饮，胡聊。清一色青年，听说主要是附近高府学生，我如穿了昂贵西装走入裸体滩，不过他们很礼貌，没人虎视眈眈。听说每天都是这样场合，这河边保持原风貌，田园风味，无理头野草。酒喝多了可就地解决，移动厕所外排了龙凤两长队。一男轻年几乎脱个精光，只留三角裤，在靠岸潜入水里, 经过一番摸索后，站出水面，手里高举手机，然后把手机递给附近一女孩。大家一时鼓掌叫好，没人看到内裤尖叫，没人上前批评，只有好奇和期待， 只为精神鼓舞。夕阳西下，这里喝完后都结对往二十分钟外公园音乐会走去，我也跟风的走，到售票门前已挤得水泻不通，只能遗憾放弃疯狂的一晚。

很习惯这里的生活。在这里青春永驻，活得洒脱；不想走。

In the pubs in China, the conduit for binge drinking is the game of dice or scissor-paper-rock. Here at the Warta River, they play a different game outdoors. Two rows are formed facing each other, and each one begins with a full bottle of beer in front of them. An empty beer can is placed in the center; each opposing side takes turns trying to hit the can with a pebble. When it is hit, all members of the team gulp down beer as much as they can, while a member of the opposing side quickly runs to put the can back on its feet. Then they yell, “Stop!” (drinking). The team that drains their beer first wins. The reward for winning: more beer? Of course, it could be made more exciting by substituting the beer with tequila, increasing the distance between the two rows, and replacing the can with a big bucket, and the pebble with a basketball. Guess what that will do to the drinking?

在中国玩骰子，猜拳畅饮助兴是祖宗留下来的文化；在这瓦尔塔河他们另有玩意。对峙双方同等人数，各站一方。开始前每队员前摆放一瓶啤酒，两队中央放个空罐。双方轮次用小石块将空罐击倒。空罐被击倒后，投石方队员尽快把酒往肚里灌，越多越快越好。而对方在空罐被击倒后尽快把空罐立正后即刻喊停，喝酒方听到喊停后即刻放下酒瓶。自己酒瓶里的酒喝完的一员就退赛，没喝完的一方为输方。这玩意可稍微改变，干脆把啤酒换成大瓶茅台或烈酒类的；再把两队参与人数增加，把场面弄得浩大；把双方距离拉远点，给予更多时间猛灌；另外把大水桶取代小空罐，小石块换成皮球提高命中率；这样会洋酒出洋相，娱乐性会更高。

I have been to many shopping malls, and we have many in Malaysia and China. The theme is always direct and straightforward—shop until you drop, eat until you can’t walk. This mall, Stary Browar, was converted from an old brewery, and others in Poland that I have come across feel more like an invitation to relax and enjoy; shopping seemed secondary. The sun is invited in, so was I. I sat down for lunch in a cafe and was unsure if I was indoors or outdoors. A big lawn area extended out of the mall that looked very much part of the mall. Beach chairs were provided so anyone could enjoy a picnic at the mall’s expense. Humanizing shopping—another good job!

到过无数商场，无论在马来西亚还是中国，商场就是购物和吃货天堂；就算没钱，逛商场也满足对物质欲望。在我酒店一百米这商场，空旷开放，阳光和阳光的我一起受邀；建筑边上门户大开的餐厅和咖啡厅，分不清是室内还是室外；品位餐饮，休闲氛围，妙趣横生。这是我见过最漂亮最人性之一的商场，旧啤酒厂改造的，好像还有啤酒飘香。商场延申到外面一片草坪，草坪摆放沙滩椅让来宾享受阳光；不是来购物，更像受邀享受一个美好时光。

In all my travels, most people are friendly; that’s always the takeaway for me. In Poznan and other parts of Poland, they were friendly but more; they seemed to enjoy being asked, to help. The young ones were so well mannered I felt like the Pope. I asked one Uber driver why that was. He explained that, while the English have a saying that the man’s castle is his home, in Poland, they say the woman at home is God—she teaches. Thanks, moms!

我周游多国，路上碰到不少友善人士，这是最值得回忆的。在波兹南和波兰多地，不仅友善，更以助人为快乐为本。每次向年轻人问路，都横溢素养，热情相助。 我问优步老司机这是何解，他说道，英国人说一个人的家是他的城堡， 波兰人俗语说家里的女人就是上帝。管教有方，妈妈们，多谢了！

Poland quit the Soviet and became democratic only about 30 years ago. They seem to be breaking from the past and reveling in their newfound freedom—the freedom to express and the freedom to choose. Right in the city square were churches; one could be in there expressing piety, or step out into the square surrounded by pubs and drinkers, and other activities deemed too decadent. Some danced to church music, others to rock-and-roll. There was no conflict, no confrontation. No one judged no one; we are not judges, nor are we God.

波兰脱俄后已民主三十多年，现在好像都乐在自由中。在波兹南就可见大教堂， 信徒们低头祷告，年轻人餐厅里低头玩手机，游客中有低头思故乡的；教堂外一群信徒载歌载舞传教，教堂周围夜总会促销拉客，其他的明月烛光下浪漫用餐，也有独自一人闷酒下肚的。这是自由的社会 – 言论自由，选择的自由。有上流社会，有中流和下流的社会，也有各种宗教信仰；三流九教，海纳百川的良土。