How I Explored the Largest Country in the World (Russia) Solo, by Train, in 30 Days – to Vladivostok 16）

22-26/8/2019. After a few hours wandering around Chita, I was ready for my next train ride. I started this journey in St. Petersburg in Europe, and would end in Vladivostok, in the farthest east of the country, from ear to ear. Traveling overland by train, 10,000 Kilometers across 11 time zones, sometimes in the cabin for up to 35 hours, living with the locals in a confined space with little privacy and luxury for days and nights, making 10 overnight stops, doing so in less than 30 days, was unprecedented for me. My waterworks, sewerage, the body clock, chemistry, all were truly messed up. A test of endurance.

I boarded the train at Chita at 2 a.m. The lights were already out, and my fellow passengers were fast asleep. I started groping for the wall socket with my phone light. Next to my bed, a woman was already sleeping with a blanket over her head. A hand stretched out from beneath the blanket and guided me to the socket on the wall. I whispered, “Thank you,” to which she replied, “Hm, hm,” and something in Russian, and went back to her sleep. Her helpfulness touched me.

This last train ride would last 52 hours on a narrow bunk bed in a congested third-class cabin with the meaty Russians. I had planned to have a rest and shower in Chita before departing for the train station but was rudely denied by the host because showing at 11 p.m. was too late for her. So I would end up stinky for four days. I did change my underwear, though, but they were almost running out. I survived on two cups of instant noodles, a couple of bananas, some chips, a bit of bread, and a lot of food for thought as I daydreamed. It was wild.

When the train stopped briefly at one of the little towns, I quickly went to a snack kiosk for a banana. I gestured at the bananas and said to the shopkeeper at the window opening, “Banana, banana please”. She refused to look at me despite my persistence. I wasn’t insinuating she was a monkey. Obviously, she chose whom she would sell to. Back in my seat, however, I was surrounded by three ladies and a gentleman, the warmest, friendliest, and most engaging Russians, from Khabarovsk.

Next to my bed was a father and his little boy of about eight. For about two days, the father fed him, helped him change, conversed with him, put him to bed, just pure fatherly care, almost as well done as a mother’s. The boy already looked like a miniature tough Russian, talkative but respectful, always responding with his two big eyes, like a cute little puppy. So who says Russian men can’t be feminine?

I was privileged to mingle, to live among them, in a community of normal Russians; no show, no pretense, no props. That was a privilege only reserved for the third-class citizen on the train. This was what I came here to capture, those precious human moments that are us. I wanted to know everything Russian. What could be more Russian than the Russians, right?

22-26/8/2019 – 在赤塔瞎溜达几小时后我又准备上车了。我在欧洲的圣彼得斯堡开始，将在远东的符拉迪沃斯托克结束俄罗斯之旅。这一程前所未有，我管道，化学，生理钟开始错乱，是毅力的考验。

最后一程真不易。五十二小时在三等狭窄床位和车厢，跟大块头俄罗斯人挤在一起；三 个晚上在小床像煎饼被翻来覆去；按计划本该在赤塔住宿休息和洗漱，但房东不高兴我晚上十一点临走前洗澡，只能拎了包走人，就这样，在乌兰乌德退房后就邋遢。夏天四天没洗澡。但有换内裤，虽然再差一天就不够换了。把头梳齐衣服穿帅，至少还算得上臭美。五十二小时吃了两碗方便面，两条香蕉，一点薯片，一点面包， 其他就只靠打做，白日梦，画饼充饥熬过。我还是挺佩服自己的。

火车在一小镇停站时我问小摊窗口问老板娘有没香蕉买。 很奇怪她就是不理不睬，冷眼不看，无论我怎样问， 她就是目中无人。可能我肤色是透明而不是透黄。回到车上，四个中年大妈大叔跟我同车厢，好奇攀谈，非常亲切，最近人情的俄罗斯人。

我邻床是个父亲和他大概八岁的孩子。两天里这爸爸给他吃饭，换他，跟他聊天，准备他休息，跟妈妈一样做的好。那小家伙很畅谈，没顶嘴，很礼貌，两只大眼睛看着爸爸，已经是个懂事大男人。大男人不一定要大男子气，对吗？

就在这狭窄三等仓四昼三夜朝夕相处，幸会俄罗斯，幸会俄罗斯人。