17/8/2019. The few hours around Khuzhir yesterday were just the appetizer. The next morning, eight of us tourists were driven toward the northern part of the Olkhon Island, in a funny-looking Russian van. Many of these workhorses are seen plying the same tracks to the north, one model, one color—the dullest gray possible—like a blur on the roads. The locals adorably describe it as “the loaf.” I wanted to cycle there, but soon realized the terrain was just impossible—too many hills to climb. We had to pass through the moonscape before reaching the landscape. Besides, given that my sense of direction is second to none, I could have ridden the bike over the cliff. We each paid 1,500 roubles, a real bargain. It was the only way, not my way, anyway.
It proved to be a beautiful, relaxing, and exciting day. We stopped multiple times, each stop stunning in its own right. Each was an opportunity for adventurism, a test of guts, boastfulness, narcissistic indulgence.
Strolling on the hilltops was refreshing and relaxing, with just buzzcut grass and the exposed dirt track paving the way. From the tops, the views were worth a million—an unobstructed, expansive view of the calm lake and the undulating landscape, and the rock formations that teased and defied. The horizon hanging in mid-air, the line between the sky and lake indistinguishable. The plunges were steep and deep, the faint-hearted could recoil from the edge, but the boastful extended themselves to the extremity. Young men and girls tiptoed to the very tip of a jagged edge, posed the most audacious and self-amusing Insta poses. A freak gust of wind would have tipped them over. I could see lone girls sitting forlornly on the precipice, staring blankly into the distance, probably thinking about their ex, “a moment like this, who needs a man”? While the boys monkeyed around the edges, surviving to boast about their antics. There was no one to hold your hands. There was no guardrail anywhere to prevent you from spilling over the edge. This was mother Russia, not your mother.
At 5 p.m., we were back in Irkutsk. A long trip, but it was still the one lake I wanted to sing about. If the biggest or the clearest was what I had come to see, my infinity swimming pool was better; but Baikal is much more, from mother Russia, from mother nature. Enchanted, totally.
17/8/2019 – 昨天下午在库尔希尔（Khuzhir）匆忙的几小时所看所摸的只是开胃菜。第二早我们八人结伙坐了一辆中巴往奥克伦岛北去，到这岛游贝尔加湖的载运车基本就是这使人抱腹大笑面包车，当地人还真称之为面包，的确太像俄罗斯面包了。很可能主设计师拿了一砖面包，对设计团队下令 “这就是我们新车要的设计”。而且颜色就统一一个颜色 – 最死板的灰色，一片模糊，没可能更压抑的灰色了，跟俄罗斯常见的阴沉天空一样。行驶时如背景是那天空，这可就是隐形车了。本打算骑自行车周游的，那真太天真了。这山坡地形和月球路面，和我独一无二方向感，再说这把年龄，真不知天高地厚水深，说不准自行车还真翻山越岭，越过悬崖到湖里去。花了一千五百卢布让面包车运载，太划算了。
这的确是美丽又放松的一天， 但又充满刺激。面包车在好几个景点下客，给于充分时间在各点各角欣赏，每个景点都各具风格，都是臭美自恋自拍，炫耀和冒险好地方。在坡顶漫步很闲适，没树丛挡路，只有寸草和暴露的土面。有胆魄的可贴近边沿漫步，珍惜性命的最好敬而远之。在坡顶至高点风景当然是最美的 – 一览无余眼下平静大湖和起伏的重重山坡，那奇形怪状的岩石不可理喻的摇摇欲坠但仍黏在崖边缘。水平线在半空中把大气和湖面一分为二，但两界不清。峭壁一落千丈，触目惊心。 许多年轻男女举步到峭壁尽头刀尖上,千姿百态，左摆右摆，自拍出自己最惊人的照片，以博得家乡朋友拍手叫绝。这都惊险万分，若弱不禁风，那可要往下飞的。 也几次看到女孩独自一人静坐边缘上，远看天边，一动不动，满脸沉思，似在自言自语，“这时不需男人陪伴，爱情也是多余的，有这已经完美了”。男生嘛则借机孩子气，炫耀胆识，胡闹自娱自乐。这里没栏杆， 也没警戒布告，这里没妈妈拉着手，这可是狂野俄罗斯。在悬崖上享受美景和刺激后可悠闲散步到湖岸，享受沙滩和清澈湖水，面对面欣赏贝加尔湖的美。
下午五点回到伊尔库茨克。这是漫长一天，但如到这里是为了看最大的，最老的，最深的，家里的无边泳池就够了。但贝尔加湖是特别的。今天美和刺激我圆满双收了。
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