See the free states of the Baltics in 3 weeks – Vilnius Lithuania 5/2018 (8)

31/5-2/6/2018. I have been on the road for a month, through four countries, from Central Asia to Eastern Europe. There is so much history, such diverse cultures, so much to see, such touching friendliness. From Gdansk, I took the night train to Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania, arriving at 4 a.m. This was the first country to declare independence from the Soviet Union, showing how desperately they wanted it. I really wanted to see how they fared after taking their fate into their own hands.

I expected to be stuck at the border crossing clearing customs, but since Poland and Lithuania are both part of the Eurozone, you are in, once you are in. So I arrived at my apartment, very early in the morning, and it was still locked. While central, this was a quiet neighborhood. I waited on the streets: No early birds in sight. A few municipal workers came to tidy up a small rest area, then laid a few colorful bean bags among the benches. We have bean bags at home to laze and slouch on, but to be invited to feel at home in a public space outdoor was so warm and fuzzy!

Lithuania is a petite country with only 2.7 million people. But that doesn’t mean it does not have those cute little cool ideas. It was now already a developed country since its independence 30 years ago. I could see many human touches that touch people: I followed a creek and came to a few cafes next to it, a few disused pianos silently greeting guests with earworms in their brains; in the middle of the creek, a few young people goofing around a little swing suspended from the bridge. I stumbled into a blue-lighted toilet, then groped around before easing myself like I was pissing in the wind. Colorful hot-air balloons hovered above the city center, above the tips and tops of the structures below, dotting the cyan sky with multiple colors. In a suburban park, dog owners brought their canines together, the owners having pep talks while man’s best friends pet talks. A main street in the city center was cordoned off and cleared of all traffic; on one stretch there was only one dining table in the middle of the street, almost like a protest. Women sunbathed on the lawn along the river near the commercial center, scantily dressed, their tops almost blown off. Girls played three-a-side beach volleyball on the sandy court along the river, but they were serving and catching the ball with bath towels. At a corner of the city square, a library shed invited the public to read on the beach chairs and the bean bags were strewn across the lawn. Some main streets in the city center were closed off, leaving the cyclists as kings of the roads. On the city’s famous square, a few school teachers were taking a group of preschoolers out on a learning trip. They were marching in formation, leashed together like a bunch of huskies, not in heavy snow but beautiful sunshine. Cute!

31/5-2/6/2018 这一趟已在路上一个月，跑了四国，从中亚到东欧，目不暇给；不同文化，深厚历史，和温馨的友善。从格坦斯克，我搭上夜班火车，凌晨四点到维尔纽斯，立陶宛首都。立陶宛是第一个从苏联独立国家，可见已久等多时，急不及待独立，我很想看他们独立后过得怎样。

我以为坐火车过境会费时， 但火车如入无人之境，因为两国都属欧盟国。到维尔纽斯过早， 酒店还没开门， 我在小区休息处等侯；街上没行人，几个环卫工人快手快脚整理公园，并在几张板凳周围放了几个豆袋椅；把豆袋椅放在公众场所请公众享用很新奇，很暖心，他们以人为本，说到做到了。

维尔纽斯是个小国，人口只两百七十万，但独立才三十多年，已晋身发达国家。不止物质成就，他们不缺主意，把城市打造得情趣别致，使生活多姿多彩。在小溪旁酒吧摆放几架废弃钢琴，秋千从桥上悬挂到小溪中央，几个青年小溪中玩秋千，一个诗意画面；我踏入一商场洗手间，进到里面几乎摸石过河找便池，深蓝灯光，如大风中站立小便；五颜六色热气球在市中心高楼和塔尖上空飘着；在一公园主人带着自己宠物在公园集会交流，不知是否为自己以狗会友还是为宠物相亲就不得而知；在市中心一大马路封了，一张餐桌摆在伶伶仃仃在马路中，很怪，但用意明显，几个波兰游客在喝酒， 邀我同坐；市内河边草地日光浴， 看到穿比基尼的，甚至躺着上衣几乎吹了；东方人会看不惯，但也不必不怪见怪；女孩三人一方玩排球，但接发球以浴巾代手，我抓不着头脑，真不知这是什么玩意；在这小公园一角书亭摆满书刊，一旁的草地上摆放了沙滩椅和豆袋椅供阅读者享用；在中心广场，几位老师带着一群皮带拉住的幼儿园小朋友户外学习，整齐的排排走，如可爱哈士奇雪橇犬拉车。

Like most European cities, history in Vilnius was evident by the numerous churches that still stood aloof, many of them spruced up to look elegant, despite their age. Every few streets or so rose another old building, another architectural marvel. My feet stopped, each building deserving a second look, then skirting around her with unabashed stares, to admire her different perspectives; curiosity aroused, I would then take a closer look and peer inside, to uncover everything there was to know about her.

如其他欧洲城市，这城市也遍地开花，没乏味的一刻，每隔条街就是一座叹为观止老教堂；我不禁止步注视, 绕着她上下来回审视，全方位审美；或近在眼前，或深入其中看她欣赏她内在美。

Every European city I visit, I want to see the river, often the cradle of its civilization, and likely still its center of happenings. There was also one here in the city center, but pitifully small, almost like a narrow water canal. But they are good at making something out of very little. Next to the river, a big lawn area was totally reserved for recreation. The commercial buildings were banished to the far end, up the hills. On this space are clustered restaurants, playgrounds, picnic and gathering spots, and lanes for jogging, skating, cycling, strolling, and, overhead, hot-air ballooning. Government of the people, by the people, for the people. People, People, People. People first. Well done!

每到一个欧洲城市，我都会问河流所在， 因为河流往往是文明的发源地，也可能仍旧是城市活动中心。维尔纽斯市内也流淌着一条河流， 不过的确小得像条大阴沟；但他们的确小材大用，河岸的是一带空旷的草地，保留给人们休闲享用，商圈被驱赶到山坡远处。这草地有餐厅，球场，滑板场，跑步，自行车，滑轮车道，野餐，音乐场地，河上人筏皮艇，上空飘放热气球。这五十万人口城市，很人性化，没看到很多匆忙的东奔西跑谋生，好像已在坐享其成。很棒。

Lithuania food 维尔纽斯美食:

First, there was indoor team volleyball, but many soon found it boring to watch men on stilts trying to hit each other with a ball. So some thought it might be more entertaining for girls to show off in bikinis, disguised as a sport—hence, beach volleyball. As I was walking along the river, I saw towel volleyball. What? When I first saw it, I could not help bursting out laughing. Girls playing three-a-side volleyball on the sandy court, but serving and catching the ball with bath towels. It was a weird concoction, I know. The girls were most likely bored out of their brains with the same old, same old.

先有室内排球，但很快看腻了，想了个歪主意，增加娱乐性，球场搬到室外去，铺上细沙。有了细沙，当然穿得越少越好；有了阳光， 当然也要穿得越少越好， 沙滩排球就这样亮相了，运动员大显身手也大秀身材。我河边漫步看到几位小姑娘，三对三，以浴巾接发球，玩出浴巾排球，玩出新花样。我第一眼看到禁不住喷出笑声；什么使你快乐，女行女素好了。

Wandering out of the city center, I stumbled upon a street lined with old wooden houses that were aged and evocative. In contrast to the contemporary buildings and the majestic block structures, these looked much more delicate, vulnerable, and in need of care and attention. Each possessed a unique personality and life story no less telling.

在市中心溜达多时后我尝试到周边看看有什么发现。这条街道许多木质老房子，好像已人去楼空，满脸沧桑，皱痕累累，黯然失色；可是韵味犹存，稍微打扮，还会风采依旧。跟这市的现代建筑和结实的教堂相比，这些木房显得脆弱，楚楚可怜，更使人怜香惜玉；她们每一个都充满个性，身怀事迹，使人寻味。

They demonstrate it is not the size, not how much you have, but what you do with it. Vilnius does not have the glamour nor the hype of the megacities, but there are so many little cute things to do here to make it such a joyous place to be. Everyone here is entitled to be happy. And who says we have to wait till we retire to enjoy our golden years?

这城市没庞大体积，没大都市的华丽, 耀眼霓虹灯；但娇小玲珑，有能力精雕细琢，打造自己别致的生活。以人为本，以巧妙的小招，创造一个快乐环境；他们不需等到退休才享受人生黄金期；何必感叹夕阳无限好，可惜近黄昏？