See the free states of the Baltics in 3 weeks – Kyiv (Kiev) Ukraine 5/2018 (1)

16-18/5/2018. I wanted to cover as much ground as possible on this trip. Two weeks ago, I flew into Almaty, Kazakhstan, from Kuala Lumpur, then moved onto Uzbekistan, before flying over to Kyiv, Ukraine, to see the Baltic part of Europe that I had not seen. I wanted to mainly see the ex-Soviet states, to see how they were doing. So here I was at the airport well past midnight, hoping to breeze past the passport control by getting a landed visa, but was instead entangled by issues with a return ticket, proof of insurance, etc. But the passport control people were welcoming.

I arrived at the service apartment at 4 a.m. It was dark all around. The taxi driver kept the headlights on so we could find the entrance among the old apartment blocks. Of course, no one answered the door. So, I had to look for another hotel at this early morning hour. I read about the Ukrainian and Russian mobsters before I came. Thank goodness they were fast asleep.

In the morning, I was so happy to step out of the hotel, into the busy street and morning sun. The trauma and drama of the night were out of my mind. After two weeks in Islamic countries, it was nice to have a change of flavor. This is also an ex-Soviet state, now moving closer to Europe. I could already see and feel the freedom, the life, the varieties, the availability. I enjoyed the convenience of better access and faster internet, food choices, and more Western conveniences. People were friendly here, and many expressed it in English; like they were open for business, all visitors are welcome. I saw a big billboard in the central square: “FREEDOM IS OUR RELIGION!” I wanted to jump up in the air and shout out, “Hurray!” For sure, a breath of fresh air.

As I wandered around the city, I strung together an array of cathedrals with skin tone that are graphic and showy. They were like beacons placed across this city to remind all not to lose their souls in the pursuit of material progress. The statures were impressive; there were no complicated lines, no appendages. Each was impressive in its geometry, made that much more striking with the artistic use of colors that blend and contrast under the cotton-clouded blue sky. To top it off, these were crowned in gold giving it regality. They beamed with radiance, not to flaunt but cheer—why should a place of solace be dreary instead of uplifting? I stood marveling but dwarfed and humbled in front of these majestic buildings.

16-18/5/2018 两周前从吉隆玻飞抵哈萨克斯坦开始这次征程，接着移师乌别克斯坦，然后一跃到乌克兰, 一举到波罗的附近的几个国家看看前苏共体脱苏后过的怎样。三更半夜到机场，搞落地签折腾了一段时间凌晨四点才到住宿，四周黑乎乎，大家睡呼呼。　的士司机大灯打着，我们两个几栋老公寓楼四处摸门，但没找着。听说俄罗斯和乌克兰黑手山党在这里小有名气，我脑子里一直想着万一被抢劫一空，弃尸荒野，无奈凌晨四点多赶紧另找酒店。

经过一晚曲折，一早步出酒店，踏上繁华街道，举目耀眼的晨光扑面而来，昨晚的出师不利完全忘了。 在回教国家两周后，换换口味挺好的。乌克兰前身是苏联一成员，现在倒向欧洲，第一口气我已经可感觉到新鲜气息；自由奔放，充满活力，多姿多彩，和无数选择；更快的网速，更多不同美食，西方的便利，英语普及和友善的人群，好像张开两手开怀欢迎来客。 在独立广场看到一个大标语，“自由是我们的宗教！”。很有意思！可想而知，可能是多年压抑，对自由多么向往。替他们欢呼雀跃。

在市内溜达一阵后发现整个城市多处散布了引人注目的老教堂，把这城市点亮了。结实的主体，没附属物，雄伟站立着；没五颜六色使眼花缭乱，只单纯一个主色调，光鲜亮丽；头顶上带上金光灿烂的皇冠，蓝天搅拌白云，使严肃教堂变得生辉夺目。

This was a very walkable city. This was especially the season for it – summer was arriving but the throng of tourists had not. Everything from nature converged on that spectacular day: the blue and white above, the green around, and the spaciousness in between. Everything man-made, by people of the past or the present, they coexist, blending to tell their life story here. Progress has been made, but in no way overshadowing the magnificent legacies of the past.

这城市适宜漫步游，现在更是最好季节；蓝天配了变化多端的云团，夏天的绿草木使地面毫不逊色，空旷的空间使人静心；没喜新厌旧，古人留下的遗产，和现在崭新的面貌，完美的结合。

I kept strolling, hypnotized by everything that came my way. I could afford to walk dreamily around, allowing the city to reveal more and more and yet more of itself. I saw, of all places, a piano was placed in the open spaces of a few parks. I saw people sitting down to let their fingers dance on the keyboards. Not everything has to be staged; another freedom of expression, purely moved by the music and joy in their hearts. What a powerful symbol!

(Today, 2 May 2022, I looked back at this video, of the elderly lady playing the piano, the locals dancing, how music has been replaced with cries, their lives turn to death; it feels like the death of loved ones, worst, their ongoing torture. What are we?)

我慢悠悠的让景物一个一个滑到面前，如被催眠，陶醉的尽收眼下。奇葩的是，走过几个公园，公园里会摆着一台钢琴，不是废物，不是展品，我见过路过的坐下来旁若无人的十指跳起舞来。这是艺术的底蕴， 也是自由的发泄；心中的音乐，内心的喜乐，是多么感人的象征。

I could spoil myself wining and dining here after two weeks in Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan. The food here was definitely Western, complemented by a decent ambiance with sit-down dining, at a more affordable price than the expensive European cities. It wasn’t an understatement that Ukraine was the breadbasket of the old Soviet Union. The Ukrainians looked good and stood tall on those long legs. If you eat well, you deserve to look good.

I have been left to my own design, totally unleashed, but not out of control. There is enough space for all—everyone can breathe easy here.

在中亚两周后，在基辅吃喝花样多了，乘机大饱口福，不愧是前苏联菜篮子。色香味，性价比，都齐了。乌克兰人个子高；吃得好， 长得好很自然。洋气时髦女孩轻盈长腿街上走秀增添景色；这里没必要回头，迎面来的都是一个又一个，一样的吸睛。我在走马看花， 他们一个一个的为我走秀。