How to experience the best of Central America in 50 days solo and overland – Stop 14 Flores and Tikal, Guatemala

28-31 March 2024 From Copan Ruinas in Honduras, I returned to Guatemala at Chiquimula, to go to Tikal in the north. First I aimed for Ro Dulce to break from the long journey. I arrived late afternoon with no accommodation. I could spend the night on the street, this being a Semana Santa week. I ended up sleeping in a disused attic alone above a bar at 2 am. A cat was meowing the whole night, trying to engage me in conversation, possibly due to acute loneliness. The wind blew through the wooden walls and windows and howled like a typhoon; I felt exposed and vulnerable, alone on the dark river.

The next morning, I took more chicken buses to Tikal. The timing could not have been worse – A Friday on a religious week. I changed buses at Cadenas, Chatec, and San Luis. Then, after waiting for an hour to go to Poptun, the locals said the bus was not coming, and invited me to share a pickup to San Elena. I arrived after dark, looking for accommodation. Upon hearing about my situation, a Chinese restaurant owner asked her staff to go looking for one nearby and found a couple. My lucky stars were again shining brightly, though I did end up booking 3 different hostels over 3 nights.

One of those three nights was a nightmare. It was already light-out time in the dorm. Everyone was well in bed after a long day of enjoyment. Somewhere in the attic, two cats were yowling at each other most aggressively. The noise was loud and prolonged, followed by the sound of tangling with each other and the tumbling on the floor. I think they were tearing each other’s hair off. Occasionally, they would briefly pause to fix their hair, only to resume yowling at each other, and then another round of violence. The cacophony lasted for hours, filled with hissing, growling, high-pitched yowls, and screams. I don’t think they were trying to say hello to each other, or in a courtship. The tones did not sound tender. They were having a go at each other. It was a nasty nasty fight, possibly a territorial dispute, or jealousy, or too much weed. I imagined fists and fur were flying. I never knew cats could be so nasty to each other, almost like human, because they almost always look so meek with their masters. It was like a gory movie with only the sound effects. The next morning, I saw the hostel’s cat walking nonchalantly in the dorm, its fur well-groomed, its limps not limping, as if nothing had happened. I could swear they were tearing each other’s hair out the night before.

On the first day, I explored the town of Flores, a short walk on the causeway from Santa Elena. Flores is a lakeside town with old cobblestone streets and vibrantly painted houses. The lake was calm, inviting to those seeking to relax by her, and to those seeking reprieve from the stifling heat, to take a dip in the water.

The next day, I visited the Mayan ruins at Tikal National Park. The park encompasses 575 sq km of jungle and thousands of ancient structures. In the central part alone, there are 3,000 buildings and covers about 16 sq. km. I opted to join a small tour group because, as I have read, people have gotten lost in the jungle.  The most prominent surviving buildings include six very large pyramids, each supporting a temple structure on their summits. They were built to reach the sky, looking magnificent and mind-boggling.

It has been a whirlwind tour in Guatemala, I was swept away just reminiscing about the volcanoes, lakes, ancient ruins, religious celebrations, colonial churches, cobblestone streets, laid-back humble folks, traditional colorful costumes, and local delicacies. With that, I ended my exotic journey in Guatemala.

Click here to start from Stop 1 – Stop 16 of this trip: How to experience the best of Central America in 50 days solo and overland, and other trips

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