See the free states of the Baltics in 3 weeks – Gdansk Poland 5/2018 (6)

27-30/2018. From Torun, I now headed toward Gdansk on the coast. This was a city filled with history. I stayed in the old town, with my airbnb apartment opening onto the busy square, swarming with tourists. Groups of little kiddies chirped and hopped merrily. Several white tourists already licked ice cream, even though it was early in the morning. Others just gazed aimlessly from their breakfast tables, their eyes roving at passersby. Street performers worked their magic, letting their music drift with dandelions in the air. This is where happiness is brought together.

History permeates this city, very much by the Gothic-style buildings, leaving their indelible marks. Over the decades and centuries, it forms the genetic makeup of this city. I enjoyed the polished new buildings and the conveniences, but never in exchange for the memories of the Polish past. I walked around the city for hours on end, indulging in the historical museums, gates, mills, granary, town hall, cathedrals that provided the narratives.

27-30/2018 离开托伦三小时后大巴抵达格但斯克。这是波兰充满历史的沿海城市，我住老城区，一出门就是最出名的老区步行街；游客已络绎不绝，小朋友蹦蹦跳跳的；老外一大早已舔着冰淇淋边走边看的，其他已经蹦跳不了的无奈围着桌上几瓶啤酒眼睛不停扫射路上飘来飘去的仙女；街头艺人把音乐带到大家跟前，随着蒲公英种子在空中飘扬。他们成功把快乐汇集到这里。

历史渗透这城市；哥特风格建筑在这里到处留下烙印；我喜欢崭新建筑和便利，但更喜欢这些古建筑 – 教堂，粮仓，市政厅，城门，博物馆不停讲述这古城世世代代的故事。

The social movement started by the labor union at this shipyard, which used to be called Lenin Shipyard, is said to have significantly contributed to the fall of the mighty Soviet Union. The labor union was the first free union recognized by the state at that time, its movement involved civil resistance to advance the cause of workers’ rights in the communist-rule country. It survived suppression by the then government and spread to become a national movement, eventually took part in the election and won, spelling the end of communist rule. That was a most momentous time back in the ’80s and ’90s; the whole world held its breath, marveling at their courage and tenacity. This museum is a monument to that. I came to recapture that moment.

在这船厂发生的运动，被公认为大程度造成当时苏共解体。那是八零九零年代的事了，那时可是惊天动地的大事。波兰人胆子可不小，敢大熊头上拔须毛； 世人隔岸观火，为他惊了不少冷汗。这博物馆意义深重，是纪念在这船厂工会发起团结运动 (Solidarity) 。回顾那刻，这里的人们， 因理想和信念，把世界格局重摆。理想和信念，值得敬佩。

This was where the first shot of the Second World War was fired. It has left behind many deep scars. The Gdansk World War Two Museum gives a vivid account of the suffering—a torpedo is exhibited, photos of victims are displayed, ruins are depicted. Today, we are capable of destroying ourselves many times over. Many have weaponry in their backyards waiting to be used. We won’t survive the third reminder.

世界二战第一枪就是这里打响的，留下深陷伤疤。这格但斯克的二战博物馆栩栩如生讲述数以万计死伤，多少惨绝人寰的事迹，多少悲痛的各人故事。阴沉的展示鱼雷，三维坦克和废墟，无数遇难者照片。一战没阻止二战，也没阻止残暴的战争继续发生；这就是人的兽性。孩子们需要充满着爱心，不是憎恨，不是满脑子钱财 。这一游并不愉快，可是最有意义。我们不会再有第三次机会了。这是沉重的一天。