See the free states of the Baltics in 3 weeks – Helsinki Finland 5/2018 (13)

10-12/6/2018. I was coming to the end of my trip, after savoring Central Asia and relishing the Baltics. It had been a fusion of contrasting and complementary flavors; it had been sumptuous, not a morsel wasted. I felt like having dessert to end on a sugar high, not a whimper. So I cast my eyes across the pond: Helsinki was within sight.

After two hours, the large ferry arrived in Helsinki, the capital of Finland. This was the eighth country and the last stop on this trip. I had been on the road for more than 40 days. It was almost time to go home to see what mess my home country was in.

10-12/6/2018 此行中亚到波罗的国接近尾声。区域之分，文化之别，国度间差异，从中亚的草原和沙漠，到发达的北欧，丝绸之路到北欧风情，回教转变基督教，风貌各异，如入幻境， 难以回神。在路上已经四十多天了，大快朵颐之余，意犹未尽，很想来个甜品完美收官；举目波罗的海，哦，大池对面就是芬兰的赫尔辛基！于是，此行第八国，到芬兰尽兴。

大渡轮在平静大海行驶两小时后抵达；最后一站了，看完后回家看那家乡给领导们玩成什么样子。

The Siberian winds had been a bit blustery the past few days, but the warm sun was trying its best to placate. I took the tour bus for a quick spin around the city for about an hour. The pre-recorded tour guide asked rhetorically in my earphone: “Finnish children’s study time is the least, classroom time the shortest, homework the least. Why is it that the standard of education and achievement is so high? Because they let their children time for fun, spurring their creativity.” I had kind of the same type of childhood, but maybe I did not have enough fun.

这西伯利亚寒风这几天还在使劲吹，幸好阳光还带点暖气。抓紧时间，坐上观光车一小时扫视各景点。耳机导游问道：芬兰孩子上学时间短，作业少，啃书时间不多，为什么成绩很好？解释说，因为孩子完乐时间充分，有人生乐趣，激发创造力；不开窍书呆子未必很聪明。我小时也少读书，问题是不够玩乐。

Just a stone’s throw from the city center awaited the shoreline. It was so laid-back. There were no crashing waves, and no choppiness. Everything was so subdued and peaceful; there was no crowd, just the odd cyclists, joggers, and strollers taking it in their stride. There was no rowdiness. No one hurried, no one panted. Every few meters was a pit stop, a cafe to add a bit of flavor to the salty air. Such a complete picture of leisure and pleasure.

Salmon seemed in abundance and popular. A popular salad was salmon with watermelon, all the refreshing goodness in a bowl. No wonder the girls walked with those long, levitating legs.

English was widely and well-spoken here: at the convenience store, on the bus, at the café. The servers and attendants, including the migrants, were more than able to hold their own engaging in trivial English civilities. They did not regard a widely spoken foreign language as a threat to their national identity.

Everyone seemed to be so well-behaved and well-mannered, as though their mother had reminded them that morning before they left home, to be on their best behavior. Maybe these are northern European characteristics. I really enjoyed living in a civilized and progressive society.

离开市中心一臂之遥就是海岸线；早上云层厚， 中午后转晴；没滚浪，也没喧闹，只偶遇三两个跑步，散步，骑自行车的，不催不急的步伐滑行。没几步就是咖啡厅，咸风中带芬香，一切很宁静，很有情调。生活写意，多姿多彩；户外户内都是家，乐在悠闲中。

这里年年有鱼，三文鱼更是盛行；三文鱼色拉很普遍，独特的一道是三文鱼配新鲜蔬菜还加配不少西瓜块，营养丰富，清凉爽口；难怪女孩们步伐轻盈，长腿地面悬浮，给夏天增添凉爽。

很佩服他们的英语水平。做为第二语言， 通常三两个字勉强的从牙缝中挤出来还可以，但在这里，无论小店内的服务员，餐厅的服务员，公交司机，都能寒暄自如，对答如流；他们没将外语视为威胁，让人另眼相看。

这里我开始见到较多的外来民族，包括亚洲人，我猜想是移民。这是 个文明的地方，大家都很礼貌，好像早上出门是妈妈又叮嘱，在外要规规矩矩；我非常喜欢住在一个文明国家。

I read about the numerous neoclassical buildings in Helsinki. As I walked around, I noticed that many of the old buildings have four digits marked on their foreheads. When I zoomed in with my camera, I could see they had been around since the early 20th century. True to form, they have been well preserved. Despite their age, there were scarcely any skin blemishes. They were already showing off style and classiness back then. Among the polished and glossy upstarts, they rightfully continued to earn our admiration and respect.

街上发现不少二十世纪初建筑，有些额头写着四个数字建筑年份，对自己老龄毫不掩饰，反使人仰慕。虽已上百，身躯老当益壮，丝毫无损。前人在百年前已品位高尚，技艺非凡，在今日的现代建筑中不落后人，依旧让人刮目相看。

I had been drifting around the city, soaking it all in. Then, in the late afternoon, I came across a long street in a busy shopping area that had been cleared of traffic. In the middle of the street, a long table stretched as far as the eyes could see. They were having a potluck, and one and all were invited. They dressed not to impress, but exuded pride in themselves. There was no boisterous behavior, no loud talking, no children running amok. Simply, the natural air of collectedness. This was a happy and beautiful summer day, of wholesomeness and harmony. I was told this was Helsinki Day. What a day!

傍晚在闹市中心一条主要购物街道被封掉；拉了一张长桌，一望无际，摆了千人宴；没人请客，都自带的；听说庆祝赫尔辛基日，邀请市民庆祝。虽是喜庆，谈笑风声，笑容满面，却较低调；大家规规矩矩；连衣着也那么朴素但不乏品位；没喧闹，但不缺热闹；他们大可在家进餐，但带着熟人跟陌生人欢聚一堂，凸显社会融洽；快乐安祥，别开生面，超棒！

When I was small, I lived for a short spell in a traditional attap house, with shared communal toilet sheds away from the house, whose buckets were emptied by men each day. That left an indelible mental scar on me to this day. At a pit stop on this trip in the Kazakhstan grasslands, I had my childhood memory refreshed in these old fashion toilets. So, I found the Finnish public toilets worth a mention. The interior was coated throughout in shiny steel, polished to clinical cleanness. I thought it would be tattooed all over with graffiti, but I saw none. After you have cleaned yourself, the toilet also cleaned itself, ending with a big burst of fresh air that replaced the foul air. And they don’t charge you for answering the call of nature. Their toilets reflect human decency and dignity.

小时候曾经一阵住在简陋茅屋，茅厕在户外，几家共用，每天清便夫挑着担子把马桶挑走。那段日子不堪回味， 至今不堪回首。此行哈萨克斯坦草原休息站时又有幸重游老茅厕，诸多感触之余，今天不得不提赫尔辛基公厕，虽然反胃但这可是急事。举目一望，内部上下全面闪亮钢皮，用完自动冲水，干完后，一股强风自动换气，以免臭气熏天，万里飘香。这样方便太方便了，且全免费。活得有尊严，难免使人起敬。

What is Finland known for? Shark fins? Heavens, no! I know: Nokia, Angry Birds, and sauna! Sauna is a very strange Finnish invention. Buck naked, they steam themselves to red hot but uncooked, then go chill in the cold, come back, and repeat it time and time again. Traditionally, the Chinese do a lot of steaming, but of food, not themselves. That said, sauna has now become ubiquitous in China, too.

Summer months are relatively short. The northernmost of the country is even above the Arctic Circle. The temperature could plunge to below minus 35 degrees centigrade. Those dark and freezing wintry nights are too long for most sane people. Saunas can give them warmth but not glorious days. They want to catch as much of the sun as they can, for their chlorophyll to work. So, when the sun makes its appearance, they are like little lambs on the prairie, chilling in the sun before the chilly winter arrives again.

I would later read that Finland has been voted the happiest country in the world for a few years! This comes as no surprise, really. I felt relaxed. I feared no crime. I felt civility and equality. I felt free. I saw modernity. I relished the neoclassical look. I enjoyed the progress but also found peace in nature. The yin and yang could not have been better balanced by themselves, for themselves. How could a place be so cold yet so warm? So, what is Finland most known for? As far as I am concerned, this is it.

知道芬兰以什么闻名？诺基亚，愤怒鸟， 还有桑拿！今天到博物馆，介绍了芬兰人给人类的桑拿。这是芬兰人养身之道，在桑拿房一丝不挂，像包子样把自己裸蒸，不知几分熟，但蒸得通红，血管膨胀，再到室外冰天雪地冷却，这样来回把自己折腾一番。这玩意很有意思，很奇葩；因此，芬兰人该很有韧性，伸缩性该很强。很可能这地方天气太冷，千方百计取暖；因此，太阳一出，大家都扎堆草地上，像吃草绵羊。

我后来获悉芬兰几年获选世界最快乐国家！这并不意外。在这里我很自由， 很放松，这里人人平等，彬彬有礼；这里老旧共存，物质追求但没淘汰自然，阴阳平衡做到极致。快回到炎热的马来西亚，我会怀念芬兰， 更怀恋芬兰人。