Kuantan Pahang, Malaysia 马来西亚关丹 9/2020 (5)

23-24/9/2020. I spent some brief time in Kuantan when small. This is the town where many of my relatives still live. But the city has morphed into something unrecognizable. The Kuantan River still flows through it. The old part of the city near the river esplanade is still resplendent with old charms. Decades-old Chinese shophouses are still there, better preserved and maintained than most other Malaysian towns. The new part of the city proudly shows off its many new terrace shops and malls. This is a city with vibrancy and the good look to go with it.

After reminiscing around the city, I let my navigation app lead me to the nearest beach. It took me to the McDonald’s drive-through and pronounced, “You have arrived at Teluk Cempedak.” I was confused, thinking the satellite was confused again. I then found the beach just behind the glass windows of the restaurant. No wonder it was a drive-through. The Teluk Cempadak Beach, a charming one, was only a few kilometers from the city center. I don’t know why or how the best locations of beaches, possibly the best locations in the whole city, are occupied by McDonald’s, KFC, and Starbucks. They are almost on the beach.

From Kuantan, I headed home to Kuala Lumpur, instead of heading south to tour more of Malaysia. More social distancing was called for because potential biological weapons, looking totally innocent but dressed to kill, were roaming the streets, in the hotels, and thronging the touristy spots. I took the old roads I took as a child, windy and narrow, but with much to see as I drove through the rain forest and plantations. I did not throw up as I did as a child; I am now man enough.

Malaysia is my home, and it is beautiful. It has some of the nicest and most humble people here. I was born here, and I grew up here. I love living here. But I need to feel loved. I want to feel I belong here. Making money is no longer good enough for me. I need dignity. That much I deserve.

23-24/9/2020 小时曾在关丹短时间住过，许多亲戚还在这里生活。这里华人群体比吉兰丹和登嘉楼都大，华人早在这里起炉灶，在主干道两旁盖了商铺红火起来。那时的关丹很小，很多住宅都还在村里；现在规模不同往日，不得不刮目相看。城市新区布满新造商铺和无数商场，有现代城市风范。关丹河在市里流过，在河边的华人老商铺挺养眼，保养得不错，不像其他城市的一副可怜相。

逛完市区，设好导航到海滩，漂亮的海滩就在市中心几公里内，结果导航程序把我带到麦当劳得来速。下车后发现我的海滩就给三家快餐店挡住了 – 麦当劳，星巴克，肯德基，占了全市最好地段。要享受海滩，要先享受美国快餐，但也不该把餐厅造到海滩前呀。

今天从关丹上路回家，取消南下。不玩了，疫情继续发酵。我原以为大家都乖乖躲在家里避难，只我勇敢外跑，但发现这两周酒店和景点人满为患，潜在的生物武器若无其事的聚集，表面活泼可爱都想跟我亲近，我还是在家回避再说。

小时从吉隆玻回登嘉楼没现在的高速，只有老路，狭窄双向两车道， 甚至单车道，有段路贴着山腰三百六十度来回转，我们小东西，在车上拿好塑料袋，准备大吐一场。时隔多年， 身经百战后，走过万里路后，该证明自己是什么料子了。其实很享受，狭窄的公路周旋六小时多，一路绿油的原始森林，流油的油棕园，迎面来的满载原木卡车，或卡在缓速小车后，又从东海岸回到西海岸，吉隆玻以北从西到东转了一圈。

马来西亚对我情深意重，是我长大的地方，这是我的家。这是个美丽的地方，无数海滩，梦幻小岛，暖阳和绿景，这里有友善的马来人，也有我了解的华人，我熟悉的华人文化。但我需要被爱，我需要归属感，我更需要活得有尊严。