Stop 4 – Jeju, South Korea. Visited 2 – 5 November October 2024
The last stop of my South Korean visit will be its southernmost point, Jeju, an island 82 km from the nearest point on the Korean peninsula. From Busan, I flew to the island and took a bus to the southern coast at Seogwipo, with perfect timing – right into a rainstorm, leaving my cargo sponge-soaked.
The next day, the sky cleared up, so I could see how the island is surrounded by water. The coastline bears the scar of these hard knocks. The elements here are relentless. Cliff faces are vertical, and rocks lie on the beach as vestiges of the pounding. It is rugged and battle-hardened but also a pretty face. The walk took me to Jeongbang Waterfalls, still within the city. The water fell off the cliff in a dramatic plunge, then swam toward the sea in full view. A unique and spectacular picture of a waterfall facing the sea!
From this spot, I sauntered along the seafront to the Saeyeongyo Bridge. From the bridge, the sunset over the sea horizon was another golden spectacle. The short walk from the bridge to Saeseom Island was tranquil, and the hues were soft, bringing the day to a gentle close.
Despite its reputation as a popular tourist destination, Jeju is laid back. All over Seogwipo, hikers with small backpacks navigate with their eyes glued to their phones, exploring the many trails. I picked one of the most popular routes, Olle Trail 7. About 18 km long, I might have been overly ambitious. It was an enjoyable coastal hike, at first easy and flat on wooded steps high on the cliffs, the sea below stretching to infinity. After a few hours, the trail came down to sea level, sometimes on rocky beaches. I hiked for about 7 hours but threw in the towel when the sun was preparing to retire.
Surrounded by sea, Jeju has abundant seafood. Enjoying it with metal chopsticks is Korean, the only Asian country that prefers it to wooden or bamboo ones. It requires an iron grip and a steely resolve, which the Koreans are known for.
I started this trip by flying into Tokyo on 22 September 2024. After 25 days of exploring Japan, I flew from Hiroshima to Seoul on 19 October to begin my journey in Korea. It has now been 17 days in Korea. It has been enlightening and most enjoyable to see these two Asian countries overcoming adversities to become the most developed countries in Asia. Japan is steadfast in its traditions while it powers ahead. Korea marries its own strengths with the best the West has to offer. Both excel.
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This South Korea itinerary: Seoul > Gyeongju > Busan > Jeju