Karakol, Kyrgystan. Visited 16th July 2024
The following morning, I took a shuttle bus to go towards the eastern end of the lake, Karakol. A large part of the road was unsealed as it was being resurfaced and reconstructed. The bus sped along the south side of the lake shoreline, with the enchanting lake on one side and bountiful green crops on the other. Next to these crops were mountains coated with green vegetation but at times also stripped bare and parched brown. Rising behind these mountains, and topping them off, was a range of snow-capped peaks. Snow dust churned at the top, creating the thrilling look of turbulence. It is rare to see a picture of simultaneously sun-dried mountains, sun-blessed lush green, and icy tops that refuse to succumb to the sun.
Karakol is a haven for hiking enthusiasts. I attempted the trail to Karakol Gorge, one of many. It is a15 km hike from the entrance. The trail was wide and graveled, often splattered with waste by horses and cows, determined to make their dirty work noticed. It was exhilarating to be accompanied all the way by a roaring mountain stream, sometimes in full view, sometimes obscured by bushes. It had no intention of staying at the oxygen-rarefied high altitude. So it scrambled to lower ground in a hurry, light cyan as it slowed but white when it rushed. The mountains were clothed with lettuce-green grass, shaded darker green by clusters of fir. As I neared the gorge, a plain between the mountains was revealed. The river slowed to meander on a green grass plain. It was picture-perfect. Then, without much warming, it rained, forcing everyone to frantically put on their raincoats. The river became ecstatic, charging down the steep gorge like it was the exit door in an emergency. The harder it rained, the louder it roared. All sizes of rocks could be seen on the riverbed, showing its destructive force.
Wow Kyrgyzstan, I nearly swooned over you.
Karakol, Altyn Arashan, Kyrgyzstan, Visited 18th July 2024.
Many hikers came with serious intent to hike the Karakol loop trail that starts at the Karakol National Park entrance, towards the Karakol Gorge, then Ala Kul, and finally Altyn Arashan. Some do it in reverse. Most complete it in 3 days, returning to Karakol tired, grouchy, and not interested to walk again for the next 2 days. I hiked to the Gorge 2 days ago. Actually, I cheated – I rode in a car for 3 km and the whole way back. I am now determined to test my limits. So, I took a taxi to Ak Suu Village and started hiking.
I was cheered on thunderously by the river from the start. Most just walked. Others rode on horses, many in hardened vehicles. If you want to get close to nature, you have to be on your feet. How else can you hear the sweet whisper of the breezes, the loud encouragement of the river, the firs that stood to say hello?
The trail itself was not difficult. It was hazardous only because you might inadvertantly step on some horse or cow dung, some lumpy, some soggy, while others were flattened into pancakes. It does not smell bad because they are on a vegetarian diet. You should try it for matrimonial harmony.
Hikers were coming and going on this literal highway, so high in the mountains. There were no toilets. I had to pee on the highway.
Except for these hikers, the mountains, the firs, the river, for the whole day, were mine and mine alone.
I kept going non-stop for 15 km. After about 5 hours, I was almost at the summit overlooking the yurt camp, the end point. The rain came down heavy and cold. Climbing the slippery muddy slopes to the summit became hazardous. I wore sandals for the hikes because my toes were claustrophobic. I did not stop after standing at the summit and within minutes descended to head in the homeward direction.
I started walking at 10 am and I was back in Ak Suu village about 6 pm. I had been walking almost non-stop for 30 km in 8-9 hours, eating on the walk. It was epic. I have outdone myself, thanks to Altyn Arashan.
To go to the next Stop, click the link below:
To start from Stop 1, click the link below:
The Stops on this Trip:
China Urumqi > Turpan > Kuerle > Kuqa > Kashgar > Kuqa > Nalati (via Duku Scenic Drive) > Kuerdening > Yining > Sailimu Lake > Yining > Urumqi > Buerjin > Kanas Lake > Hemu > China Urumqi > Kyrgyzstan Bishkek > Bokonbayevo (Issyk kul Lake) > Karakol > Kyrgyzstan Bishkek > Uzbekistan Tashkent > Tajikistan > Khujand > Panjakent (and Haft Kul/The Seven Lakes) > Iskanderkul > Dushanbe > China Urumqi > Hami > Dunhuang > Jiayuguan > Zhangye > Lanzhou > Xian
The route map:
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