How to experience the best of Central America in 50 days solo and overland - Stop 15 San Ignacio and Caye Caulker, Belize

1- 4th April 2024 After seeing the Mayan ruins in Tikal, my next move was to go across the border to San Ignacio in Belize. I arrived at a town shut down for the public holiday. Nothing much happened on this day, except a few individuals hanging around the streets with a bottle in their hands, not sure if they were begging for something or greeting me.

It was immediately apparent that Belize has a slightly more Caribbean vibe than the other Central American countries I have traveled to on this trip. I saw more locals of African descent. After more than four weeks of touring this predominantly Spanish-speaking region, it was a welcome surprise as a non-Spanish-speaking traveler to encounter an English-speaking enclave here. It shouldn’t be a surprise, Belize used to be called British Honduras, until 1973. It gained independence from the United Kingdom in 1981. No surprise too that I would see more nostalgic British visitors here.

I ordered a meal at a restaurant, quoted in local dollars. I paid for it in US dollars in cash. The change returned was in both US and Belize dollars. It is very strange to have 2 currencies being used in a country simultaneously. Both currencies freely circulate, are interchangeable, and are commonly accepted in Belize. The exchange rate is fixed at 2 local dollars to 1 USD, which helps. I need to be mentally agile to quickly calculate if I had not been short-changed. Further, in my hand the local dollar notes have Queen Elizabeth’s image on them, and on other notes, the presidents of the US. It is a sovereign state that is still defining its own identity.

I strolled to the Macal River in town. People were under the bridge, in the river, on its bank, enjoying its shallow water. It reminded me of the shallow Nam Song in Laos, a river of fun and recreation. It reminded me of the spacious backyards of the opulent West – open to all, with beaches a ground for beer and barbeque, and wading pools to cool down in summer.

The shallow Macal River running through San Ignacio

The locals playing in the water under the old wooden bridge over the Macal River — The shallow Macal River running through San Ignacio

The following day, I took the local bus to Belize City, followed by an hour-long boat ride to the island of Caye Caulker. Surprisingly the island does not have many sandy beaches. However, the hardened dry ground, around the hotels, resorts, restaurants, and the streets is peppered with white sand to look snow-white all over, as if they have been built on a white sandy beach.

Caye Caulker is devoted to the pleasure of the sea. While snorkeling, swimming with the sharks, and scuba diving are popular activities, I decided to skip them this time. Having recently visited the Maldives (see my trip to the Maldives) in September 2023, I opted to stay more on land. Instead, I enjoyed sitting by the beaches, on the piers, indulging in the caress of the breeze, and pampering my good mood with good food. While others cycled around the island, I was contented walked, kicking the white sand on the streets.

At about 4 pm every day, answering the call of nature, a group of stingrays come to the Iguana Bay to socialize in the shallowest. At The Split, the atmosphere was like an open-air party, electric and exuberant. No entrances, no security guard, and no invitation required. Everyone mingled – the only topic of conversation permitted was the present good time. The young and restless dived from a purposed-built diving platform and the embankment, while others simply sat on the seafront wooden platform, soothed by the sea. The water looked intoxicating and seductively inviting, and booze flowed freely. Life was as good as it gets.