The most scenic train ride in the world, Kandy to Ella, Sri Lanka 9/2023 (Stop 5)

26 September 2023 Train ride from Kandy to Ella

From Trincomalee on the east coast, I took the local buses towards Dambulla, in central Sri Lanka. After staying a night, I boarded another bus for Kandy. After another night there, I continued to Ella, this time on a train.

This is said online to be one of the most scenic train rides in the world. The fact that I had to book the ticket a week ago just to get the last ticket, a 3rd class seat, suggested that it lived up to the reputation.

It was a 7-hour train ride. Indeed, no ordinary ride. It rarely went in a straight line, as it cut through the jungle, bent around the mountains, making a lot of screeching noises. As it snaked around, passengers would dangle themselves outside the coaches, thinking that this would make them action movie stars. To be able to boast about it to millions online, their mates would capture the stunts from the window of another train coach. The train passed through many narrow tunnels and rock faces mere inches from the sides. So, it was stupidity. But, stupidity can sometimes be entertaining.

The train would often be chugging along at the top of the mountains, looking down at deep valleys below and the houses on the slopes. It drizzled for a few hours, and the mountains, the valleys, and the jungle started to fog up. Then, tea plantations started to populate the hill slopes for mountain after mountain. All stunning views.

Scenic train ride from Kandy to Ella

Scenery on the train between Kandy and Ella — Kandy Lake in Kandy city center

27-28 September 2023 Ella The train ride into Ella gave a sneak peek of what it has to offer. The mountainous and jungle terrain promises great hiking on foot.

A spread of sumptuous and healthy Sri Lankan breakfast on the balcony looking out to the mountains was the way I prepared my fuel for the day’s climb.

I took half an hour to walk from the city center and through the jungle and tea plantations for more than an hour to climb up to Little Adam’s Peak. It was so lush. The air was fully oxygenated. I reached the top, looking at other peaks around me and the deep valleys below. This was the cherry on top.

Healthy generous Sri Lankan breakfast at the guesthouse on the hill

Sri Lankan dinner in Ella — Healthy generous Sri Lankan breakfast at the guesthouse on the hill

The next day I went for another hike, to see the Nine Arches Bridge. It had been drizzling all morning. The paths were getting slippery and muddy. The temperature was cool. That’s why the tea bushes love it here. After about 2 km through the jungle, the Nine Arches Bridge appeared. A spectacular bridge for the trains stood a few stories high above the deep ravine. Locals and visitors congregated and loitered on the bridge, taking over the train track. They tried to sit as near the edges as possible to capture those cool looks.

Rice fields on the hiking trail to the Nine Arches Bridge — Rice field on the hiking trail to the Nine Arches Bridge

A group of European girls were taking photos at a nearby slope. Suddenly there was a loud scream. Some leeches were expressing interest in them. As I sat down for a break, a little leech was drilling into my foot. I quickly rubbed it off. I hastily put on my socks for my walk back. On arrival in town, I found a leech was getting drunk on my blood between my toes, by now already looking plump. Disgusted, I had it dislodged. After a short walk, I felt my toes sticky. I took off my socks and found that the leech was gone but the blood kept flowing. Leave me alone!

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