How I Explored the Largest Country in the World (Russia) Solo, by Train, in 30 Days – Krasnoyarsk (10)

13/8/2019. I arrived in Krasnoyarsk about 10:30 a.m., after two nights—35 hours total—on the train from Yekaterinburg. I’ve never been cooped up in a train or on transport for 35 hours. Traveling by train horizontally across the country, losing a few hours crossing different time zones; I swear I even felt jet lag on the train.

Limited vendor food was onboard, so luckily I had brought my own. For the 35 hours, I survived on a half-tube of Pringles chips as an appetizer, walnut prune banana cake as the main, a small pack of peach fruit juice for a drink, and a couple of oranges for dessert. Anything pre-cooked would not keep well for 35 hours, so I brought these fresh ingredients, took a bite of each ingredient in turn, and mixed it all thoroughly in my mouth to get the most flavor. It was a kind of detox diet on a long journey of self-reflection. . Not much else to do except to doze off, hypnotized by the trees and grass that floated by. Such a big piece of land.

Krasnoyarsk was at best a mid-size town. The best thing here was probably the best hostel I have stayed in all of Russia so far, and a walk along the Yenisei River in the town. English was spoken less here, there was less music on the street, no glamorous shopping to shout about, a place that seemed to hold on to the past a bit more. Despite its might and prowess, this part looked more like a developing country. But it was a relaxing stopover, and sitting down in a café was a much-welcomed luxury.

At 2 p.m. the next day, I was on my train again to my next destination, Irkutsk, deeper into Asian Russia. By now, I was well trained for long rides.

13/8/2019 – 漫长的35小时，两个晚上后，火车终于早上十点半抵达克拉斯诺雅茨克 （Krasnoyarsk）。一路乖乖呆在火车，不能东奔西跑，只横向东奔东跑。路程中莫名其妙丢了几小时，35 小时跨了几个时区，每坐一天火车时钟就缩水一两小时，那脑袋给搞糊涂。

35小时车上吃什么，车上几乎没送卖的。幸好一生修练，除了打坐，做白日梦，就简单糊口。开胃品是是薯片，主食就简单的核桃干桃香蕉面糕。35小时食品不好保鲜，只能把这些原材料用塑料袋都拎上车，香蕉，面包，核桃，干桃，饿时个别逐一咬一口，用仅存的二十多根牙齿慢慢搅拌。新鲜材料，现煮现吃，味道还可以。这素食洁净心灵，又驱毒养颜，已达自命清高境界了。俄罗斯这块地也太大了。

克拉斯诺雅茨克除附近着名的国家公园没什么响当当的景点。在河边和市区漫步也是难得的俄罗斯探索。这城市虽然还体面，但没感到太多旺气，街边没卖艺的，英语基本行不通，好像还有点怀旧，该到时刷新一下了。俄罗斯虽是强国，在这里更像发展中国家。

在这里中转一夜后，第二天下午两点我继续往东跑，到伊尔库茨克 (Irkutsk)，更深入俄罗斯的亚洲。