How I Explored the Largest Country in the World (Russia) Solo, by Train, in 30 Days – Yekaterinburg (9)

10/8/2019. After a little over a day, I boarded the 15-hour night train to go farther east, to Yekaterinburg. I had almost two full days here, a Saturday and Sunday. The sun was out; the locals were out. The living enjoys living, not to earn a living. Glorious summer in the outdoors!

People were cycling, dining, sipping coffee, strolling, walking their children and their dogs. Boys and girls were dating, girls were looking good and their best, it was just so summery.

A high percentage of the girls here looked good. Could it be the potato they eat? Couldn’t be the vodka, surely. Oh wait, I heard rumors many years ago that vodka was also made from potatoes? I can tell you, everything they have buried under that big piece of land are treasures to the Russians: oil, potatoes, the subways included.

People were almost without exception exceptionally friendly and helpful, in the restaurants, on the streets, and at the train station. Not just obliging, not mere civility, but a smiling, happy, and genuine friendliness. My preconceived perception of Russia was blown out of the water.

The English language had a place here. There was even a monument to the Beatles here. I didn’t know if those four English had anything to do with the English here. I heard many rock bands making their music heard on the streets, usually two guitars and a simple drum set, like a hologram of The Beatles. It was such a feel-good place. I read the Romanovs are related to the English royals. The city felt kind of rebelliously European.

I visited the Church of Spilled Blood (what a bloody good name!), built over the place the Bolsheviks executed the Romanovs, Russia’s last royal family. To my surprise, the exhibits extolled the king’s achievements although it does not seem to have the appetite for returning to monarchy. The only king they now have an appetite for is Burger King seen across the city. A very popular king.

In the city center stood a big statue of Lenin. Who is to say Russia cannot have a king and Lenin at the same time? Russia remains as inscrutable as ever.

10/8/2019 – 在喀山两天后我又启程东行,搭上大约十五小时火车到叶卡捷琳堡(Yekaterinburg)。适逢周六周日,夏日阳光热情款待,户外活动活跃,跑步的,骑自行车的,散步的,四处张望的。年轻人夏装散发青春,小孩街上蹦蹦跳跳,情侣光天化日缠绵的,流行乐队街上敲敲打打,我享受这里夏天的活力。很喜欢这里,阳光和户外摇滚把我老骨头都激活了,多年压抑的青春之火又死灰复燃了。

参观了意义非凡的溢血教堂 (Church of Spill Blood), 俄罗斯最后一代君王罗门诺夫(Ramonov)被革命分子处决之地。教堂展览馆毫无忌惮颂赞君王旧绩。 现在随处可见的只有汉堡王,很受欢迎。市中心摆着一座列宁的大雕像。谁说俄罗斯不能同时拥有列宁和国王。俄罗斯,不是我一个普通人能了解的。

行程至今,这是我唯一会因为人们的友善而多逗留的俄罗斯城市。无论是餐厅,街上或车站,只要我开口,几乎毫无例外都会笑容相助,是一种真诚的友善。英语好像也很受接纳,没感觉到排斥。这城市还有个利物浦披头士乐队的纪念碑,而罗门诺夫家族跟现今英皇室还有亲戚关系呢。总感觉这城市比其他俄罗斯城市更亲欧,会吗?

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